How to Replace the Front Brake Rotor on a 94 Ford Exp 4x4

The braking system on the Ford Explorer 4X4 makes use of hydraulics to slow and stop the vehicle. When you push the brake pedal with your foot, the master cylinder is activated, and it pushes fluid through the brake lines to the calipers. The brake calipers then squeeze the rotors between them and the friction causes the Explorer to slow down and stop. The friction causes the brakes and rotors to wear and when the rotors reach the minimum thickness of 0.810 inches, you must discard and replace them.

Instructions

1

Park the Ford Explorer on a level surface and turn off the key. Put the wheel chocks behind the rear tires of the vehicle. Lift the Explorer with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under it close to the jacking point and raise it to the frame.

2

Remove the lug nuts from the wheel with the lug wrench and pull the tire from the Ford. Loosen the caliper bolts with a socket and ratchet. Pull the caliper from the mounting bracket and secure it to the strut with a wire tie. If you allow the caliper to hang, it will damage the brake hose.

3

Carefully pry the grease cap from the wheel hub using the screwdriver. Remove the cotter pin from the shaft using the pliers. Remove the locking nut using a wrench. Remove the adjusting nut using the wrench and then pull the flat washer from the shaft.

4

Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub. Be careful not to drop the bearings. Remove the hub and rotor assembly from the spindle.

5

Install the new rotor along with the hub assembly. Insert the roller assembly and the bearing cone. Pack the bearings with wheel grease. Slide the flat washer on the shaft. Install the adjusting nut and tighten it with a wrench. Install the lock nut and tighten it with a wrench. Install a new cotter pin and spread it open with the pliers.

6

Place some wheel grease over the assembly and carefully tap the grease cap into place with the rubber mallet. Cut the wire tie holding the caliper to the strut with the pliers. Place the caliper into the mounting cradle and tighten the locking pins with the socket and ratchet. Install the wheel on the Explorer and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.

7

Remove the jack stand from under the Explorer and lower the vehicle to the ground. Repeat the procedure on the other wheel. Pump the brake several times when the project is complete to be sure that the brake pads bare resting on the rotors.

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Tyres for 308THP

First batch of 308THPs were fitted with CSC3 225/45 R17 tyres. These tyres are superb on wet condition. Its directional stability is exceptional. Very responsive on curves - wet or dry. A little bit noisy and ride harshness but WELL worth it!
I love these tires. I have been driving on them for the last five months covering more than 10,000km. The car feels livelier and more sure-footed especially on wet. I cant decide if I should say it feels like Im riding on rails or if its glued to the road. Whichever it is, the car feels very stable and responsive.

Continental has won a coveted award from the UKs no1 modified car magazine, "FastCar". Announced in the magazine, Continentals ContiSportContact 3 took the top spot in the Best for Safety category.

"FastCar" Magazine also commented:
Safe is the name of the game with Continental Tyres and their wet weather performance is the absolute best. The ContiSportContact 3 tyre is focused on serving up awesome handling for powerful performance cars. We like Continental tyres a lot. The ContiSportContact 3 is the ideal choice for drivers who want the highest levels of safety without compromising on performance. In terms of safety, the use of a supple third generation silica compound allows for supreme wet braking performance. A high proportion of rubber on the outer shoulder and a stiff asymmetrical tread pattern ensures optimum performance handling.
Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric is probably the most logical alternative to CSC3. Just like the asymmetric CSC3, the "asymmetric" in the Eagle F1 Asymmetric name describes the tires tread design and internal structure - both of which are designed to enhance performance in dry and wet conditions. Having three wider channels it looks like CSC3 performs better on wet than GY F1, but the later should be quiter, more comfortable and lasts longer
The tread uses carbon black for dry traction, silica for wet traction and a new generation of polymers to optimize tread stiffness. This compound is molded into an asymmetric tread design with wide, solid outboard shoulder blocks to increase cornering traction while a continuous center rib improves high speed stability and an open inboard tread pattern disperses water. Wide circumferential grooves also allow water to flow from between the tire footprint and road.

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How to Replace the Mirror Glass in a 2001 Honda Accord

Over time, the reflective paint used on the rearview mirror for your 2001 Honda Accord may start to deteriorate. This causes yellow patches to appear on the mirror, thus preventing you from seeing everything going on behind you. A small amount of yellowing may not cause a problem but as the issue progresses, you may fail inspection. Honda dealerships can get you a replacement mirror but it only takes a few minutes to install it. To avoid paying the dealership to install the mirror, complete the job on your own.

Instructions

1

Remove the set-screw from the base of the rearview mirror. The set-screw holds the mirror onto the mounting tab. Use a number 8 Torx driver to remove the screw.

2

Side the rearview mirror upward off the mounting tab glued to the windshield of the Accord.

3

Slide the replacement mirror onto the mounting tab.

4

Secure the mirror to the mounting tab with the set-screw.

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How to Change the Rotors on a 2500 Chevy

If you have detected a worn or damaged brake rotor on your 2500 Chevy model, you need to change it as soon as possible. Although a relatively simple task, removal and installation requires proper handling of brake assembly components and a new rotor to prevent damage, ensure the good operation of the brake system and keep you safe on the road. With the required tools, and possible tools you may need handy, you can safely perform the job at home.

Instructions

Removing the Rotor

1

Park your Chevy pickup in a safe and level place. Shift the transmission to neutral (N).

2

Using a clean rag, clean the cap and body of the brake master cylinder reservoir.

3

Draw at least two-thirds of the brake fluid from the master cylinder using a clean turkey baster and an appropriate container. Set the cap back in place but loose.

4

With a lug wrench, loosen the wheel lug nuts on the wheel/tire assembly with the rotor you are changing.

5

Raise the wheel/tire assembly using a floor jack and support it on a jack stand. Finish removing the wheel/tire.

6

Retract the brake caliper pistons into their bore using a large C-clamp. Position the clamp over the caliper and use the clamp screw to push against the brake pad to force the pistons back.

7

Remove the two brake caliper bracket mounting bolts using a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.

8

Lift the caliper and mounting bracket as an assembly off the rotor and secure it to the coil spring using a piece of heavy wire. Leaving the caliper and bracket hanging loose will damage the brake hose connected to the caliper.

9

Remove the rotor from the hub. If the rotor seems stuck, clean the hub and rotor assembly, including the threaded holes in the rotor, with brake parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free rag. Then, if you are changing a front rotor, install two M10-by-1.5 bolts into the threaded holes of the rotor. Tighten the bolts evenly and gradually with a ratchet and socket to pull the rotor free. On rear wheels, rotate as you pull the rotor off the hub. Alternatively, use a slide hammer with a hooked end and pull the rotor from the vents on the edge.

Installing the New Rotor

10

Clean the hub flange-mating surface with brake parts cleaner, a soft brush and a clean, lint-free rag.

11

Wipe the friction surfaces of the new rotor with brake parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free rag to remove the protective film.

12

Position the new rotor in place.

13

Remove the caliper and bracket assembly from the coil spring and set it in place over the rotor.

14

Clean the caliper bracket mounting bolts with a wire brush, brake parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free rag.

15

Coat the threads of the caliper bracket mounting bolts with a threadlocker.

16

Install and start the caliper bracket bolts by hand. Then, tighten the bolts using the ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.

17

Install the tire and, with the lug wrench, tighten the wheel lug nuts.

18

Lower the vehicle and finish tightening the wheel lug nuts.

19

Slowly pump the brake pedal several times to help the caliper pistons and brake pads properly seat over the new rotor.

20

Fill the brake master cylinder with new brake fluid to bring the level up to the "Full" mark.

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Speed Increment on RON95

Today I had multiple good-times smoking n.a 2.0liter cars - both European and Japanese Saloons. It was on PLUS [Northbound]. Besides testing for the "pick-uping" power of the 308 THP against n.a 2.0 liter cars I also collected additional data for running on RON95.

Here it is...

[sampling time or delta t is 1s]

From the logged data it took around 5.5 seconds [avg.] to increase speeds by 10km/hr at any point from 150km/hr up to around 180km/hr in 4th gear *

e.g
150km/hr to 160km/hr in 5.5 seconds
160km/hr to 170km/hr in 5.5 seconds

Is it "too slow" on RON95? What is the best timing running on RON97 or V-power then?

*Earlier test took less than 25seconds [updated timing took 23.5 seconds even on RON95] to sprint from 0~160km/hr .

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Is Peugeot 308 Auto with THP Power Plant a Frugal Car

Ive just returned home from 801.3km weekend trip [KL-Kelantan-KL] in myPeugeot 308 with a 60-liter fuel tank of RON97 w/o refuelling. Fuel/trip computer snapshots and manually calculated figures are available for comparison on the fuel consumptions.


1. From on-board Fuel/Trip Computer
The best average fuel consumption was 6.4liter/100km [16km/liter or 45mpg] on 307km* route from Machang to Raub.

[16km/liter or 45mpg]

[*Note: On AutoCruise without exceeding speed limits >5kph - AutoCruiser was set @ 75, 85 and 95kph wherever applicable respectively]

After Raub the traffic was no longger smooth flowing - there were convoys of express buses, trailers and cars all the way prevented me from using AutoCruise. At times the speed was reduced to 50kph or less when trailing slow vehicles. It was Monday 27th around 4:00am~6:00am when I was driving from Raub to KL.

There are more accends than decends from KL to Kelantan hence more fuel consumption [6.7liter/100km] than going back to KL from Kelantan.
The average fuel consumption for the 800km drive was 6.6l/100km or thereabout as shown on the MFD .

[15.2km/liter or 43.3mpg]

Earlier, I left KL for Kelantan on Friday 24th around 4:00am. The actual KL-Kelantan[@Machang] point-to-point distance was 383km. I drove some distance further up to make it cukup2 400km [for 800km return trip]. See... after arriving @Machang, still got remaining fuel for another 500km as shown on the CDC - more than enough to burn along the way back home.


2. By Manual Calculation:
The amount I paid for the fuel used after returning from 801.3km trip was RM97.05 [i.e 53.9liter].

Hence, by calculation the average fuel consumption was 6.7liter/100km [14.9km/liter or 42.7mpg] on 801km

Since the amount of fuel used for the 800km drive was about 54liter, the expected range per full tank [60liter] will be 888.888km! While on-board fuel/trip computer tells 901.3km [801.3+100km]. "801.3km" is the distance travelled since the last refueling and "100km" is the remaining kilometer to go before EMPTY as displayed on the MFD and CDC based upon the average fuel consumption for the last few kilometers sampling.

Only now, I can appreciate and enjoy steady driving on AutoCruise - not just driving w/o pumping the accelerator pedal, but most of the time I dont even need to touch it.


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When Should You Visit a Transmission Repair Specialist

Most people drive their cars every day but still dont know how they work. Sometimes drivers will even ignore obvious problems with their vehicles, hoping they will go away on their own or that it isnt something serious. Only when the car stops working altogether do they visit a mechanic in a panic! Issues with a cars transmission can mean serious problems down the road if they are not attended to quickly.

In laymans terms, a transmission transfers the power created by the engine to the drive line and wheels: this can be done either manually (as with a stick shift) or automatically.

Here are some of the symptoms of transmission problems and how to know when its time to visit a transmission repair specialist.

-- Problems shifting gears: since the transmissions job is to keep up the momentum of the car by shifting gears, it stands to reason that any problems with gear change may be stemming from the transmission. The symptoms could be an unusual noise made by the transmission during a shift, or, if you drive a stick, it may not glide smoothly between gears.

-- The car makes a jerking movement or the engine surges at inopportune times. The jerking movement could indicate that the engines power is not being smoothly transferred when a shift needs to occur.

-- Transmission fluid is leaking. Transmission fluid acts as a lubricant for all of the moving parts inside your cars transmission. Just as the engine cannot run right without oil, the transmission will not work right without fluid. Transmission fluid is generally reddish in color, so if you see any on the ground under your chassis, get help right away before a costly disaster happens.

-- The car wont move. If your car starts up ok, it just refuses to move, the problem is likely to be with the transmission. Youll need to have it towed to a shop where their mechanics can advise you on what to do next.

All car drivers should have a working knowledge of how their vehicle works and what the symptoms are for certain problems that may arise. If you suspect your transmission is to blame, take it to a mechanic: it does not necessarily mean it has to be replaced. The problem may just be a minor one; but one things for sure: transmissions do not fix themselves!

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DIY Suspension Steering and Braking System Cleaning Inspection 20 000km

AHW308 is now almost one-year old OTR. Just clocked around 20,000km. Its the time for another round of under_carriage/tyre_well general cleaning and inspection.

The most important inspection for safety are the Suspension, Steering and Braking System besides Tyres. Tyre inspection and rotation were done a week earlier.

After cleaning, the inspection began...

Steering and Suspension System
All links/joints and rubber bushes/boots are perfectly OK. Nuts and bolts are also tight. No loose one..


Braking System
Brake fluid level and all brake lines/hoses. OK
Brake pads. OK
Brake disks... sudah makan sikit. By using a Vernier Caliper ...

... front brake disk thickness is 25.32mm [new disk thickness was 26.20mm]. Sudah makan 0.88mm sahaja after one year. OK dan boleh tahan lagi tu...

Rear brake disks are virtually no wear and tear at all [yet]...


Drive Shafts
Drive shaft boots. OK
Shafts still look perfectly OK in gunmetal color. No rust at all! How come in AW forum got ppl complain their shafts oredy rusty ah? Never clean after use meh?


Read also DIY: General Cleaning/Inspection [@10,000th km]
p/s Sunday Jan 17th, AHW308 will be re-test driven to and fro Frasers Hill...

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How to Remove a Frozen Brake Rotor

The word "frozen" is used often in the automotive repair industry and is often misunderstood. For example, depending on where you live, it is not uncommon to have rotors frozen to the hub of the vehicle. It doesnt mean that all it needs is to thaw out. It means that rust, corrosion, and oxidation have fused the rotor to the hub. Before you try to remove "frozen" rotors, prepare for the job, or else you will almost certainly damage the rotor. The following steps show how to remove a rotor correctly and reuse it, and to remove and replace it.

Instructions

Remove and Reuse a Frozen Brake Rotor

1

Put on the safety glasses since youre trying to remove something stuck on a vehicle by rust. With the vehicle on the lift, or on jack stands, and the wheels and calipers removed, make sure there are no retaining rings on the lug studs of the rotor, or retaining screws holding the rotor to the hub.

2

Spray a liberal amount of lubricant on the hub of the rotor where it seats around the hub bearing. Check to see of there are small bolts holes on the hub face of the rotor. If there are, you can try to thread in bolts (usually 2), but the width and thread pitch of the bolts will vary. Once youve found the correct bolt(s), thread them in until they bottom out against the hub. Tighten the bolts alternately about three times each then switch to the other using the ratchet and a socket, and as the bolt tightens, it will pull the rotor away from the hub. If the rotor is "frozen" badly, chances are it will strip out the bolt or bolt hole threads and youll have to try another method.

3

Spray more lubricant onto the rotor and hub bearing seam. Strike the rotor with a large rubber mallet. Strike it on the plate of the fin from behind and from the front alternating strikes. You can light the torch and heat the seam and hub face of the rotor and the edge of the hub of the rotor and continue to strike it with the mallet. The hotter the rotor gets, the lesser the chances are of saving it.

4

Use the slide hammer with a rotor removal adapter. This is an L-shaped adapter that screws onto the end of the slide hammer and sits down behind the rear fin plate of the rotor. Slam the slide hammer and move it often to shock the rotor from the hub and eventually remove it.

5

Since the rotor was "frozen" to the hub, clean the face of the hub and the edges where the replacement rotor will sit. Use a medium-grade sandpaper, or better yet, a pneumatic die grinder and a coarse sanding disk. Clean it thoroughly. Apply a light coat of a high temperature anti-seize lubricant on the seam of the hub bearing where the hub of the rotor will sit over and along the edge of the hub bearing which will be seated against the inside hub plate of the rotor. This is where the rust and fusion generally occur, and this lubricant will help future extractions of the rotor so such measures will not have to take place.

Remove and Replace a Frozen Brake Rotor

6

Spray the hub of the rotor where it seams to the hub bearing and strike the plate fin of the rotor with a 2-pound sledge hammer. Strike it from behind and from the front and move the rotor by turning it to hit a different spot. This usually works as long as youre hitting it with enough force to shock it from the hub.

7

Light the torch and heat up the hub face, around the lug studs, and on the side of the hub of the rotor and get it very hot. Once its heated up, turn off the torch quickly and continue to strike it with the sledge hammer. This is in some extreme cases, but continuing to do this usually works. You may have to heat the hub of the rotor a few times and continue to strike it with the hammer.

8

Plug in the pneumatic impact hammer with a stud removal bit to start if you still have not been able to remove the rotor. You can alter the bits around as you begin to work the rotor off. Start by impacting the flat of the hub of the rotor where it seats against the hub bearing. This will help vibrate the rust fusion apart. Next position the impact hammer so that its contacting the inside plate fin of the rotor and pushing it outward. Again, turn the rotor to alternate the position. This is the last straw kind of step, but will work as long as you remain diligent. Caution needs to be applied on this procedure so you do not incur damage to the hub bearing beneath the rotor.

9

Since the rotor was "frozen" to the hub, clean the face of the hub and the edges where the replacement rotor will sit. Use a medium-grade sandpaper, or better yet, a pneumatic die grinder and a coarse sanding disk. Clean it thoroughly. Apply a light coat of a high temperature anti-seize lubricant on the seam of the hub bearing where the hub of the rotor will sit over and along the edge of the hub bearing which will be seated against the inside hub plate of the rotor. This is where the rust and fusion generally occur, and this lubricant will help future extractions of the rotor so such measures will not have to take place.

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How to Repair a 1996 Plymouth Neon Window

For an older vehicle such as a 1996 Plymouth Neon, maintenance and repairs are common. One thing you may not expect to creep up on you is a cracked window, but that is actually one of the easiest repairs to make. Gather your supplies and get the repair job done.

Instructions

1

Clean the damaged window with a solution of soap and water. Use soft cloths to both wash and dry.

2

Use the razor blade to remove any loose pieces of glass from within the cracks. Make sure you have your goggles on for safety purposes.

3

Place the injector into the stabilizer at the site dedicated for the injector.

4

Put the plastic resin tube into the injector and then remove the injector once the resin is in place. The resin will quickly flow out of the tube and into the cracks.

5

Remove the stabilizer once the tube has emptied and the cracks have been filled. Carefully lift it off the window so as not to smudge the repair.

6

Place the curing strip over the resin until it is dry.

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How to Repair Leaky Windshields

A leaky windshield is a symptom of a poor contact seal at the windshield glass edge. Over time, anything from severe elements to an automobile accident can cause the glass to shift, breaking the seal. When this happens, water leaks into the cabin. The only way to fix this is to remove the molding around the windshield and reseal the glass edge.

Instructions

1

Wedge the tip of the trim molding removal tool underneath the trim around the windshield. Pry up on the molding to remove it.

2

Inspect the molding for any damage or wear. Try to locate the source of the leak. You may need to run a water hose over the surface of the glass near the glass edge to find out exactly where it is leaking inside the cabin.

3

Trim back the existing urethane molding on the windshield with an automotive cutting knife. These are knives designed to cut urethane molding. (Your local auto parts store will carry them.) Youll want to make sure that you expose the area where the seal has broken and clean it up with the knife.

4

Apply a fresh bead of urethane sealant to the affected area and allow it to dry. Drying times may vary depending on weather conditions, humidity and other factors.

5

Insert the window molding. Youll need to force the trim back into place around the glass edge, pushing it down with the tip of the trim tool.

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Peugeot 207 and 308 Sedans

And now... Peugeot 308 Sedan 2010 prototype is spotted in China! Click HERE for more info. Peugeot 308s sedan production has also been confirmed for Argentina.

Peugeot 207 Sedan
I think, 207 sedan looks better in proportions than 308 sedan. Peugeot 207 Sedan
207 sedan however looks more like a facelift 206plus with a boot rather than the original 207 hatch! - observe the front wings, side mirrors, fender around front foglight, fresh air intake on the hood, tail-lights, windows, etc...

Peugeot 206plus

Peugeot 207

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4 Years On the Road

The car was registered on this day and rolled out of the showroom EXACTLY four years ago. It was one of the first batch of Peugeot 308 THP140s to arrive on Malayan shores.

Still in pristine condition with very low mileage - just clocked 60,005km. No major issues. 

Accident free and  still sparkling clean inside & out ...

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How to Remove a Door Window in a 2001 Ford F 250

The 2001 Ford F-250 Super Duty pickup is the mid-sized truck in Fords non-commercial F-Series fleet. Ford offered the 2001 F-250 with three different cab configurations: standard, super cab and super crew. If the door window glass incurs a scratch or chip, youll most likely need to replace it. An auto glass company can buff out surface scratches that arent deep enough to catch on your fingernail. Anything deeper than that requires window replacement. Always use caution when handling auto glass as the sheer weight of the glass if dropped and broken can deliver life-threatening lacerations in the blink of an eye.

Instructions

1

Open the F-250s window fully. Pry the sail panel trim off the F-250s door. The sail panel is the triangular trim piece located at the leading upper-edge of the door panel, on the backside of the doors A-pillar.

2

Pry the window and lock switch off the door panel using the trim tool. Disconnect the body harness from the switches and then set the switch bezel aside.

3

Pry the courtesy-light lens off the bottom trailing-edge of the door panel using the trim tool. Remove the hex-head screw behind the window switch bezel and the courtesy-light lens using the socket wrench and 7 mm socket.

4

Lift the door panel off the door by hand. Unplug the courtesy light from the body harness before moving the panel away to a safe location.

5

Lift the window to the top of the window frame --- you may need to temporarily reconnect the window switch to raise the window electronically. Secure the window to the top of the frame using packing tape. Unbolt the window glass from the window regulator using a socket wrench and 8 mm socket.

6

Support the window glass with one hand while removing the packing tape with the other. Lower the glass far enough to grab the top of the glass with both hands from the outside of the F-250. Tilt the glass forward and lift it up and out of the F-250s door through the outside of the window.

7

Set the old glass down in a safe location. Tilt the new glass forward and slide it down into the door from the outside. Tilt the glass back into the door, so it sits level and then raise it to the top of the window frame.

8

Secure the new glass to the top of the door with packing tape. Bolt the new glass to the window regulator using the socket and wrench. Remove the packing tape.

9

Reconnect the window switch temporarily and lower the window down into the door. Disconnect the switch. Slide the door panel onto the door.

10

Reinstall the two door-panel retaining screws with the socket wrench and 7 mm socket. Snap the courtesy-light lens into the door panel.

11

Plug the window and lock switches into the body harness, and snap the window switch bezel back into the door panel. Reinstall the sail panel by snapping it back into place. Clean the new window glass with a cotton rag and automotive window cleaner.

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Peugeot 208

Peugeot 208 set to launch in 2012 - According to various press reports, Peugeot is expected to launch the all-new 208 hatchback in 2012, rivalling the likes of the VW Polo and Opel Corsa. The newcomer will follow in the footsteps of its predecessor, the 207, which currently ranks among Europe’s top-selling models.

Industry sources claim that although Peugeot designers have not finished work on the 208 yet, the car will offer sporty, dynamic looks, but its grill will be toned down somewhat, adding to the product’s distinctive quality and elegance.

Could it be like this one?


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Convertible Mustang Window Repair

A damaged window in a Mustang convertible can cause added problems for the owner as it can put your vehicle at risk of further damage or even theft. A broken window can also potentially damage your soft top or stop it from working correctly. To avoid this, you should repair the window by removing it from the Mustang in order to replace it. You can purchase a replacement window with the correct specifications for your Mustang from your local auto store.

Instructions

1

Open the door of your Mustang that contains the damaged window. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the screws that keep the door handle trim and the door handle itself in place. Pull them both away from the door.

2

Remove the screws around the inner side of the door that keep the door panel in place and carefully lift the door panel away from the door. Place this in a secure area as you will need to reattach it later.

3

Use a hex wrench to remove the hex bolts that connect the window to the window regulator.

4

Lift the damaged window from the door frame. If the window is broken, take care not to cut your hands on any of the broken pieces of glass.

5

Insert a new window pane into the door frame. Line up the glass with the window regulator. Secure them together by tightening the hex bolts in place. Reattach the door assembly by following the removal steps in reverse.

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How to Change the Rear Brake Pads on a Miata

The rear brake pads that come equipped on some Mazda Miata models (also known as the MX-5 Miata) only account for about 30 percent of the braking power for the compact import. Therefore, the front brake pads do more of the work and will require more frequent service. However, the rear pads will eventually have to be replaced since theyre smaller and not as thick as the front brake pads.

Instructions

1

Remove one-third of the brake fluid from the master cylinder in the engine compartment after parking the Miata on a hard level surface suitable for lifting and supporting the vehicle. Discard the fluid.

2

Ensure the parking brake is not engaged and place a tire block in front of one of the front tires.

3

Loosen the rear wheel nuts with the jack wrench by turning them one-quarter turn counterclockwise.

4

Lift the rear of the Miata with the car jack, one side at a time, and then support the car on jack stands in a safe and secure location. Finish removing the wheel nuts and wheels.

5

Locate the manual caliper piston adjustment gear plug on the back side of the caliper housing and pull it out of the housing by hand.

6

Insert a metric Allen wrench key and turn the piston adjustment key counterclockwise until the caliper piston is fully retracted within its bore. Replace the plug after the piston has been retracted.

7

Remove the lower caliper bolt with a metric hand wrench and lift the caliper upward off of the brake pads.

8

Remove the old brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket and then remove the brake pads upper and lower hardware clips from the bracket.

9

Install the new hardware clips onto the bracket and then apply a light coat of silicone brake lubricant to the brake pad contact points on the clips.

10

Insert the new pads onto the hardware clips in the mounting brackets.

11

Pivot the caliper down over the pads and rotor, align the lower caliper mounting bolt and then tighten the bolt to 30-foot pounds with a torque wrench and metric socket. Replace the pads on the opposite side.

12

Replace the wheels and wheel nuts and then tighten them flush to the wheel and hub. Raise the Miata up just enough to remove each jack stand and then lower the Miata slowly to the ground. Torque the wheel nuts to 80-foot pounds with a torque wrench and socket in a crisscross pattern.

13

Ensure the master cylinder cap is secure and then pump the brake pedal several times until it feels normal. This will seat the new pads to the rotors and extend the caliper pistons outward.

14

Recheck the brake fluid in the master cylinder and top off as necessary with new brake fluid only.

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New 308 Design Concept

The 308 embodies in its own way the characteristic Peugeot genes . The strongly contoured lines of the “nose” of the car serve as the focal point and create a dynamic and flowing “V” profile which follows back from the bonnet into the front windscreen pillars.

The particularly feline looking front headlights extend harmoniously along the bonnet profile. Four “circular lights” with an attractive technical finish give the vehicle a “look” that is both bright and eye catching, and are clearly visible through the clear headlamp lense.

The profile of the 308 creates a dynamic impression of movement, with elaborately styled panels and flowing design of the windows. The lines at the rear of the vehicle help to identify it. The large wrap around lower bumper – and large rear lights emphasises the wider rear profile and the large curved rear tailgate glass.

The interior style of the 308, exploits as far as possible the space made available by the semi-tall architecture. The objective is probably to give the interior a very prestigious feel, both in terms of the design and the materials used.

The centre console is designed to be very compact, with large areas reserved for distinctive materials both in terms of appearance and touch (the upper part of the console, covered with soft touch high quality material, can also be fully trimmed in leather). Each element (air conditioning panel, radio, storage compartment or CD auto-changer) is also particularly well integrated.

- The door panels with their tapering profile mirror the exterior of the vehicle.
- Chrome detailing enhances the overall effect: air vent surrounds and instrument panel dials, air conditioning and radio control buttons, door handles, etc.
- The exterior theme of the “V-shaped bonnet” is echoed subtly in certain interior details, such as the trim circling the gear lever, the design of the upper part of the seat cushions or indeed the shape of the front courtesy light.

..... creating a luxurious and welcoming feeling, flattering the senses of all the occupants.

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