Showing posts with label change. Show all posts
Showing posts with label change. Show all posts

How to Change the Rotors on a 2500 Chevy

Tuesday, May 5, 2015

How to Change the Rotors on a 2500 Chevy

If you have detected a worn or damaged brake rotor on your 2500 Chevy model, you need to change it as soon as possible. Although a relatively simple task, removal and installation requires proper handling of brake assembly components and a new rotor to prevent damage, ensure the good operation of the brake system and keep you safe on the road. With the required tools, and possible tools you may need handy, you can safely perform the job at home.

Instructions

Removing the Rotor

    1

    Park your Chevy pickup in a safe and level place. Shift the transmission to neutral (N).

    2

    Using a clean rag, clean the cap and body of the brake master cylinder reservoir.

    3

    Draw at least two-thirds of the brake fluid from the master cylinder using a clean turkey baster and an appropriate container. Set the cap back in place but loose.

    4

    With a lug wrench, loosen the wheel lug nuts on the wheel/tire assembly with the rotor you are changing.

    5

    Raise the wheel/tire assembly using a floor jack and support it on a jack stand. Finish removing the wheel/tire.

    6

    Retract the brake caliper pistons into their bore using a large C-clamp. Position the clamp over the caliper and use the clamp screw to push against the brake pad to force the pistons back.

    7

    Remove the two brake caliper bracket mounting bolts using a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.

    8

    Lift the caliper and mounting bracket as an assembly off the rotor and secure it to the coil spring using a piece of heavy wire. Leaving the caliper and bracket hanging loose will damage the brake hose connected to the caliper.

    9

    Remove the rotor from the hub. If the rotor seems stuck, clean the hub and rotor assembly, including the threaded holes in the rotor, with brake parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free rag. Then, if you are changing a front rotor, install two M10-by-1.5 bolts into the threaded holes of the rotor. Tighten the bolts evenly and gradually with a ratchet and socket to pull the rotor free. On rear wheels, rotate as you pull the rotor off the hub. Alternatively, use a slide hammer with a hooked end and pull the rotor from the vents on the edge.

Installing the New Rotor

    10

    Clean the hub flange-mating surface with brake parts cleaner, a soft brush and a clean, lint-free rag.

    11

    Wipe the friction surfaces of the new rotor with brake parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free rag to remove the protective film.

    12

    Position the new rotor in place.

    13

    Remove the caliper and bracket assembly from the coil spring and set it in place over the rotor.

    14

    Clean the caliper bracket mounting bolts with a wire brush, brake parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free rag.

    15

    Coat the threads of the caliper bracket mounting bolts with a threadlocker.

    16

    Install and start the caliper bracket bolts by hand. Then, tighten the bolts using the ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.

    17

    Install the tire and, with the lug wrench, tighten the wheel lug nuts.

    18

    Lower the vehicle and finish tightening the wheel lug nuts.

    19

    Slowly pump the brake pedal several times to help the caliper pistons and brake pads properly seat over the new rotor.

    20

    Fill the brake master cylinder with new brake fluid to bring the level up to the "Full" mark.

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How to Change the Rear Brake Pads on a Miata

Friday, May 1, 2015

How to Change the Rear Brake Pads on a Miata

The rear brake pads that come equipped on some Mazda Miata models (also known as the MX-5 Miata) only account for about 30 percent of the braking power for the compact import. Therefore, the front brake pads do more of the work and will require more frequent service. However, the rear pads will eventually have to be replaced since theyre smaller and not as thick as the front brake pads.

Instructions

    1

    Remove one-third of the brake fluid from the master cylinder in the engine compartment after parking the Miata on a hard level surface suitable for lifting and supporting the vehicle. Discard the fluid.

    2

    Ensure the parking brake is not engaged and place a tire block in front of one of the front tires.

    3

    Loosen the rear wheel nuts with the jack wrench by turning them one-quarter turn counterclockwise.

    4

    Lift the rear of the Miata with the car jack, one side at a time, and then support the car on jack stands in a safe and secure location. Finish removing the wheel nuts and wheels.

    5

    Locate the manual caliper piston adjustment gear plug on the back side of the caliper housing and pull it out of the housing by hand.

    6

    Insert a metric Allen wrench key and turn the piston adjustment key counterclockwise until the caliper piston is fully retracted within its bore. Replace the plug after the piston has been retracted.

    7

    Remove the lower caliper bolt with a metric hand wrench and lift the caliper upward off of the brake pads.

    8

    Remove the old brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket and then remove the brake pads upper and lower hardware clips from the bracket.

    9

    Install the new hardware clips onto the bracket and then apply a light coat of silicone brake lubricant to the brake pad contact points on the clips.

    10

    Insert the new pads onto the hardware clips in the mounting brackets.

    11

    Pivot the caliper down over the pads and rotor, align the lower caliper mounting bolt and then tighten the bolt to 30-foot pounds with a torque wrench and metric socket. Replace the pads on the opposite side.

    12

    Replace the wheels and wheel nuts and then tighten them flush to the wheel and hub. Raise the Miata up just enough to remove each jack stand and then lower the Miata slowly to the ground. Torque the wheel nuts to 80-foot pounds with a torque wrench and socket in a crisscross pattern.

    13

    Ensure the master cylinder cap is secure and then pump the brake pedal several times until it feels normal. This will seat the new pads to the rotors and extend the caliper pistons outward.

    14

    Recheck the brake fluid in the master cylinder and top off as necessary with new brake fluid only.

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How to Change Automobile Brake Pads

Wednesday, April 29, 2015

How to Change Automobile Brake Pads

Replacing brake pads is a straight forward procedure that anyone with a set of basic tools can perform. All that you need is an hour, some attention to detail, and the right tools for the job. Replace the brakes on your car in no time following these instructions.

Instructions

    1

    Apply the parking brake and chock the rear wheels with bricks or blocks. This prevents the car from rolling backward while you jack it up. Using the lug wrench, loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels. Do not remove the lug nuts yet.

    2

    Slide the jack under the front of the car, positioning it under the front cross member. Jack the car up until you can place jack stands under the cross member, right by the control arm. Remove the lug nuts and wheels from the vehicle.

    3

    Use the large screwdriver to pry the brake pads away from the rotor. Then, still using the large screwdriver with the tip against the pad, pry the caliper piston into the caliper body. You will have to do this on the inboard and outboard pads. Brake fluid might drip from the master cylinder but this is normal.

    4

    Inspect the brake rotor for gouges. If you find gouges you replace the rotors. If the rotors look good, use the small flat-bladed screwdriver to remove the two clips from the slides that hold the pads in place. Slide the pins out carefully. Watch for the anti-rattle clips because they can fly out.

    5

    Remove and inspect the brake pads from the caliper. The pads should have brake pad material on them with no signs of rubbing against the rotor. If there are signs of rubbing you should replace your rotors.

    6

    Inspect the new pads to ensure that they are the same as the old pads. Put anti-seize compound on the sides of the pads to help them slide smoothly in the caliper. You should also put anti-seize on the back of the pad then install the shim and put anti-seize on the back of the shim. Put the anti-rattle clip on the top of the pad and put Anti-Seize in the curves where the slide pins will go.

    7

    Carefully slide the outboard pad, shim and anti-rattle clip into the caliper and put the two slide pins in. Then install the inboard pad, shim and anti-rattle clip and slide the slide pins all the way through the caliper. Make sure the brake material is facing the rotor. Once the caliper pins are fully seated, install the retaining clips.

    8

    Put the wheels and lug nuts back on the car. Tighten the lug nuts only finger tight at this point. Jack the car up enough to remove the jack stands, then lower it completely. Torque the lug nuts to specification. If you dont know the specification, read through your cars owners manual, or ask a local auto parts store.

    9

    Press on the brake pedal a few times to regain firmness in the pedal. When the brake pedal is firm, remove the wheel chocks and disengage the parking brake. Take the car around the block for a short test drive to test the brakes to make sure they are working properly.

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How to Change the Rear Brake Shoes on a Lincoln Mark V

Tuesday, April 28, 2015

How to Change the Rear Brake Shoes on a Lincoln Mark V

Changing the rear brake shoes on a Lincoln Mark V requires time, concentration and patience. Though the process itself is not overly complicated, the steps required must be followed precisely or you could damage your brake system or even injure yourself if the system fails while youre operating your car. Consequently it is not recommended that you change the brake shoes on your Lincoln without first consulting a knowledgeable mechanic.

Instructions

    1

    Crack the lug nuts on the rear wheel of your Lincoln before lifting onto a jack. This will enable you to use the pressure of the tire on the ground under the weight of the car for leverage as you try to loosen the nut.

    2

    Lift your Lincoln with a 5 ton jack and support its rear end with two jack stands.

    3

    Remove the lug nuts from the rear wheel youre working on first and then remove the tire from the brake drum.

    4

    Spray the brake drum with penetrating oil. Penetrating oil is a low-viscosity lubricant that allows you to unscrew rusted or otherwise stuck bolts and nuts. It can be purchased at a local car parts store.

    5

    Remove the return spring from the brake drum using the speciality return spring tool. The return spring tool looks like a pair of pliers and can be purchased at a car parts store.

    6

    Remove the spring retainer clips using the clips speciality tool by holding the rear of the retaining pin down and inserting the specialty tool over top the front of the clip and turning the tool counter clockwise. The retainer clip specialty tool looks like a screwdriver and can be purchased at a car parts store.

    7

    Hook up a line wrench onto the brake line connected to the rear drum and loosen the fitting to remove the line.

    8

    Unscrew the bolts mounting the wheel cylinder so you can remove the wheel cylinder itself.

    9

    Remove the wheel cylinder so you can remove the old brake shoes.

    10

    Replace both the brake shoes and the wheel cylinder.

    11

    Reattach the brake lines.

    12

    Reassemble the rear wheel brake drum system in reverse order.

    13

    Adjust and test your new rear brakes. The new brake shoes should lightly contact the brake drum.

    14

    Bleed the brake system to ensure that it is free of air and leaks.

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landroverworkshopDVD com how to change landrover and discovery wheelbearings brake pads and discs

PART2 of 3 showing how to change landrover defender discovery and range rover classic wheeelbearings wheel hubs and brake discs. Tips on what to do and what not to do. lots more on www.LandroverworkshopDVD.com www.Diy-Dvds.com www.Spanish4X4Expedition.com

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How to Change the Rotors on a 2007 Pontiac G6

Friday, April 17, 2015

How to Change the Rotors on a 2007 Pontiac G6

The Pontiac G6 was introduced in 2005, and it replaced the Pontiac Grand Am. The 2007 Pontiac G6 was equipped with a 2.4-liter, in-line four-cylinder in the base model. The 2007 G6 GT was available with a 217-horsepower, 3.5-liter V-6, and an optional 227-horsepower, 3.9-liter V-6. The 2007 G6 GTP was equipped with a 252-horsepower, 3.6-liter V-6. The 2007 G6 rotors are responsible for creating the friction on the brake pads, to bring the car to a stop. If the rotors are warped or too thin, they cannot perform their braking functions effectively.

Instructions

    1

    Raise the hood of the G6 and check the fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir. Remove brake fluid with a turkey baster or bottle pump siphon, until the brake fluid as about 1/2-inch below the "Full" mark on the reservoir. Install and tighten the reservoir lid.

    2

    Loosen the front wheel lug nuts with a tire iron. Raise the front of the G6 with a jack. Set jack stands beneath the front sub-frame rails, on either side of the engine. Lower the car onto the stands. Remove the front wheel lug nuts, then remove the front wheels from the car.

    3

    Remove the caliper bolts from the rear of the caliper, with a ratchet and socket. Remove the caliper from the brake assembly, using a small pry bar, if needed. Hang the caliper from the front strut coil spring with a metal clothes hanger or rod. Remove the brake pads from the caliper bracket, on the outboard and inboard sides of the rotor. Place one of the brake pads against the caliper piston inside the rear of the caliper.

    4

    Wrap a C-clamp around the brake pad and the back of the caliper housing. Tighten the C-clamp to compress the piston completely. Throw the old brake pads away. Remove the brake pad retainer clips from the caliper bracket, by hand. Remove the caliper bracket bolts from the rear of the steering knuckle, using a ratchet and socket. Remove the old brake rotor, by hand.

    5

    Install a new brake rotor onto the G6, and finger-tighten a single lug nut against the face of the new rotor. Spray the entire surface of the rotor with aerosol brake spray to thoroughly clean both sides of the rotor. Install the caliper bracket onto the car, then tighten the mounting bolts with your ratchet and a socket. Clean the channels on the caliper bracket where the pads are to be placed, using a wire brush. Install a thin layer of caliper grease on the outward-facing lips of the bracket.

    6

    Install the brake pad retainer clips onto the caliper bracket, by hand. Install new brake pads onto the caliper bracket, making sure the "L"-shaped metal protrusion is only positioned on the inboard side of the rotor. The "L"-shaped metal piece is the brake wear indicator, and should be situated at the top end of the inboard brake pad when it is installed on the car.

    7

    Remove the caliper slide pins from the rubber boots on the back of the caliper. Dip the slide pins into your tub of caliper grease, or thoroughly coat them with fresh grease. Insert the pins back into the rubber boots when they are properly lubricated. Remove the caliper from the coil spring and install it over the new pads and rotor. Tighten the caliper mounting bolts to 26 foot-pounds with a 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench and socket.

    8

    Repeat steps 2 through 8 to complete the rotor and pad replacement on the other side of the G6. Remove the lug nuts from the faces of both rotors, by hand.

    9

    Install the front wheels onto the G6 and tighten the lug nuts snug with a tire iron. Raise the car off the jack stands, then remove the stands from beneath the car. Lower the G6 to the ground and tighten the front wheel lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds with your torque wrench and a wheel nut socket.

    10

    Sit in the drivers seat of the G6. Depress the brake pedal about two-thirds of the way down, then release the pedal for 15 seconds. Depress the brake pedal two-thirds of the way down again to finish stiffening the pedal and to seat the new pads and rotors together.

    11

    Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Add fluid up to the "Full" mark on the reservoir, if necessary. Install and hand-tighten the reservoir cap.

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How to Change Brake Fluid in a Motorcycle

Motorcycles go from 0 to 60 miles per hour in under 3 seconds. With all of that speed, stopping becomes even more important than in a car. To make sure your motorcycle stops properly and consistently, you should change your motorcycles brake fluid about every two years. With a brake bleeding kit, changing your motorcycles brake fluid can be done simply and quickly.

Instructions

    1

    Attach the bleeding kit tube to the brake fluid nipple on the brake caliper. Twist loose the nipple. The old brake fluid will empty through the kits tube into the kits container. Place the container that comes with the kit into a larger container to collect any spillage.

    2

    Remove the master cylinder cap to make sure it does not completely empty. Refill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid while the old fluid is flushed out.

    3

    Pump the brake lever so the brake fluid is forced through the tube into the container. You will know that the fluid is fully flushed when the fluid in the bleeding kit tube is completely clear.

    4

    Keep squeezing the brake and re-tighten the brake fluid nipple. Replace the master cylinder top cover. Remove the brake bleeding kit and clean up any spillage. The fluid will harm the paint if it is not cleaned completely.

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Auto Repair Maintenance How to Change Brake Pads

When changing brake pads on a car, make sure the car is jacked up, remove the bolts on the caliper and remove the brake pads. Replace brake pads in a car with help from an auto mechanic in this free video on car maintenance and repairs. Expert: Tom Brintzenhofe Bio: Tom Brintzenhofe has been a mechanic for the past 17 years. Filmmaker: Reel Media LLC

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How Do I Change the Brake Shoes on a 2001 KIA Sportage

How Do I Change the Brake Shoes on a 2001 KIA Sportage?

Kia Motors first introduced the Sportage in 1995. The first generation design was discontinued in 2002 before the model was reintroduced in a new configuration in 2005. The pre-2002 models were equipped with drum rear brakes, and changing the brake shoes is a part of good brake maintenance. Doing this job yourself can save both time and money.

Instructions

    1

    Crack the rear wheel lug nuts with a lug nut wrench, and then jack up the rear of the car. Set the car on jack stands positioned under the marked vehicle lifting points. Completely remove the lug nuts, and then remove the rear wheels.

    2

    Remove the four hub nuts using a wrench or socket, and remove the drum by pulling it straight off the hub. If the hub is stubborn, tap the edges with a hammer, using a piece of wood to protect metal edges.

    3

    Remove the adjuster lever spring by grasping the spring end nearest the adjuster lever with pliers and lifting the hooked spring end off the adjuster lever. Remove the return spring by grasping the long end of the spring with pliers and unhooking it.

    4

    Turn the adjuster star wheel clockwise to relieve the tension on the brake shoes. Remove the adjuster assembly by lifting it up until the slots on either end are no longer engaged with the brake shoes.

    5

    Rotate the two hold-down pins until they align with the grooves in the hold-down pin clips. Remove the hold-down pins by slipping them through the grooves in the clips, and then remove the hold down pin clips.

    6

    Remove the primary brake shoe by pulling it straight out.

    7

    Remove the secondary brake shoe by carefully pulling it straight out, taking care not to kink the attached parking brake cable. Use pliers to remove the parking brake cable from the secondary shoe. Remove the control lever retaining clip by spreading it slightly with a large screwdriver, grasping the clip with pliers and pulling it off. Remove the control lever from the secondary brake shoe.

    8

    Measure the diameter of the drum at several points using the drum micrometer. Maximum acceptable diameter is 9.89 inches. If the drum diameter exceeds this, then it must be replaced. The drum diameter should be the same at all points measured. The interior surface should be free from grooves and cracks.

    9

    Clean the backing plate with brake cleaner. Separate the adjuster star wheel, clean the parts with brake cleaner and coat the threads with anti-seize compound before reassembling. Also apply anti-seize compound to the backing plate at the points where the brake shoes contact the plate.

    10

    Reassemble the brake assembly by reversing the previous steps. Use new springs and clips rather than reusing the old ones. Before reattaching the drum, be sure the adjusting lever contacts the star wheel. Rotate the star wheel until the outside diameter formed by the shoes (as measured with the drum micrometer) is 0.020 to 0.040 inches less than the drum inside diameter. The star wheel can be rotated by placing a screwdriver blade between the teeth of the star and moving the wheel assembly in the desired direction. Install the drum, install the wheels and test the brakes.

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How to Change the Brake Pads on a 94 Ford Ranger

How to Change the Brake Pads on a 94 Ford Ranger

One of the most important systems to maintain on your 1994 Ford Ranger is the braking system. Your brake pads will wear down over time, reducing their effectiveness and taking longer to stop your truck. Even worse, worn-out brakes can fail, leading to serious injury or worse. Like most vehicles, the majority of Ford Rangers have drum brakes on the rear wheels and disk brakes on the front wheels. Youll need an assistant to help with this task.

Instructions

Drum Brakes

    1

    Park the Ranger on flat ground and shut off the engine. Put the parking brake on and make sure that the transmission is in "Park." Loosen (but do not remove) the lug nuts on the rear wheels.

    2

    Jack up the back of the truck. Place jack stands underneath the truck on each side, and slowly lower the Ranger onto the jack stands.

    3

    Remove the lug nuts from the rear wheels and take the wheels off the truck.

    4

    Remove the drums from the wheel hubs. If the drums wont slide off, retract the brake shoes by removing the rubber plug on the back of the brake, sliding a flathead screwdriver through the hole and rotating the sprocket inside with an upward motion. Continue rotating the sprocket until the drum slides off.

    5

    Clean the wheel hub with brake wash. Wear gloves and safety goggles, and place a drain pan underneath the wheel to collect the brake wash.

    6

    Disconnect the shoe retracting springs from the pin at the top of the brake with the brake spring removal tool, followed by the springs at the bottom of the brake.

    7

    Lift up the auto-adjuster tab with a screwdriver and a pair of pliers and disconnect the auto-adjuster cable. The auto-adjuster tab is a small metal tab on the bottom of the brake.

    8

    Lift the primary braking shoe off of the wheel hub (it wont be attached to anything). Detach the secondary brake shoe from the parking brake cable and remove it.

    9

    Wash the wheel hub with brake wash.

    10

    Apply brake grease to the wheel hub where it comes into contact with the brake shoes.

    11

    Slide the new brake pads into position.

    12

    Reassemble the brakes by reversing the process you used to disassemble them.

Disk Brakes

    13

    Park the Ranger on flat ground and shut off the engine. Put the parking brake on and make sure that the transmission is in "Park." Loosen (but do not remove) the lug nuts on the front wheels.

    14

    Jack up the front of the truck. Place jack stands underneath the truck on each side, and slowly lower the Ranger onto the jack stands.

    15

    Remove the lug nuts from the front wheels and take the wheels off the truck.

    16

    Lift the brake caliper off the caliper mount, then detach the brake pad from the caliper slides.

    17

    Reset the brake caliper with a brake caliper reset tool.

    18

    Reinstall the caliper mounting bolts.

    19

    Install the new brake pads.

    20

    Reinstall the brake caliper, reversing the order in which you disassembled it, making sure that all bolts are secured tightly on the brakes.

Bleeding the Brakes

    21

    Open the hood. Remove the brake fluid from the reservoir in the engine compartment with a turkey baster. Fill the reservoir with new brake fluid.

    22

    Put a clear tube attached to a bottle over the nipple on the bleeder screw (you can get the tube and bottle at an auto-parts store). Get an assistant to pump the brake pedal a few times.

    23

    Tell your assistant to press down hard on the brake pedal and hold it. Loosen the brake fluid bleeder screw on the wheel cylinder (drum brakes) or caliper (disk brakes). Close the screw right before the brake pedal hits the floor. Repeat this step five times, then refill the reservoir.

    24

    Tell your assistant to pump the brakes about 10 more times, then open the bleeder screw. Continue to do this until you no longer see air bubbles in the brake fluid.

    25

    Fill the brake reservoir again, then bleed the brakes on the other three wheels.

    26

    Place the wheels back onto the truck. Reattach the lug nuts. Lift the truck off the jack stands.

    27

    Remove the jack stands, and slowly lower the truck to the ground.

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