How to Replace the Front Brake Rotor on a 94 Ford Exp 4x4

The braking system on the Ford Explorer 4X4 makes use of hydraulics to slow and stop the vehicle. When you push the brake pedal with your foot, the master cylinder is activated, and it pushes fluid through the brake lines to the calipers. The brake calipers then squeeze the rotors between them and the friction causes the Explorer to slow down and stop. The friction causes the brakes and rotors to wear and when the rotors reach the minimum thickness of 0.810 inches, you must discard and replace them.

Instructions

1

Park the Ford Explorer on a level surface and turn off the key. Put the wheel chocks behind the rear tires of the vehicle. Lift the Explorer with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under it close to the jacking point and raise it to the frame.

2

Remove the lug nuts from the wheel with the lug wrench and pull the tire from the Ford. Loosen the caliper bolts with a socket and ratchet. Pull the caliper from the mounting bracket and secure it to the strut with a wire tie. If you allow the caliper to hang, it will damage the brake hose.

3

Carefully pry the grease cap from the wheel hub using the screwdriver. Remove the cotter pin from the shaft using the pliers. Remove the locking nut using a wrench. Remove the adjusting nut using the wrench and then pull the flat washer from the shaft.

4

Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub. Be careful not to drop the bearings. Remove the hub and rotor assembly from the spindle.

5

Install the new rotor along with the hub assembly. Insert the roller assembly and the bearing cone. Pack the bearings with wheel grease. Slide the flat washer on the shaft. Install the adjusting nut and tighten it with a wrench. Install the lock nut and tighten it with a wrench. Install a new cotter pin and spread it open with the pliers.

6

Place some wheel grease over the assembly and carefully tap the grease cap into place with the rubber mallet. Cut the wire tie holding the caliper to the strut with the pliers. Place the caliper into the mounting cradle and tighten the locking pins with the socket and ratchet. Install the wheel on the Explorer and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.

7

Remove the jack stand from under the Explorer and lower the vehicle to the ground. Repeat the procedure on the other wheel. Pump the brake several times when the project is complete to be sure that the brake pads bare resting on the rotors.

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How to Replace the Mirror Glass in a 2001 Honda Accord

Over time, the reflective paint used on the rearview mirror for your 2001 Honda Accord may start to deteriorate. This causes yellow patches to appear on the mirror, thus preventing you from seeing everything going on behind you. A small amount of yellowing may not cause a problem but as the issue progresses, you may fail inspection. Honda dealerships can get you a replacement mirror but it only takes a few minutes to install it. To avoid paying the dealership to install the mirror, complete the job on your own.

Instructions

1

Remove the set-screw from the base of the rearview mirror. The set-screw holds the mirror onto the mounting tab. Use a number 8 Torx driver to remove the screw.

2

Side the rearview mirror upward off the mounting tab glued to the windshield of the Accord.

3

Slide the replacement mirror onto the mounting tab.

4

Secure the mirror to the mounting tab with the set-screw.

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How to Change the Rotors on a 2500 Chevy

If you have detected a worn or damaged brake rotor on your 2500 Chevy model, you need to change it as soon as possible. Although a relatively simple task, removal and installation requires proper handling of brake assembly components and a new rotor to prevent damage, ensure the good operation of the brake system and keep you safe on the road. With the required tools, and possible tools you may need handy, you can safely perform the job at home.

Instructions

Removing the Rotor

1

Park your Chevy pickup in a safe and level place. Shift the transmission to neutral (N).

2

Using a clean rag, clean the cap and body of the brake master cylinder reservoir.

3

Draw at least two-thirds of the brake fluid from the master cylinder using a clean turkey baster and an appropriate container. Set the cap back in place but loose.

4

With a lug wrench, loosen the wheel lug nuts on the wheel/tire assembly with the rotor you are changing.

5

Raise the wheel/tire assembly using a floor jack and support it on a jack stand. Finish removing the wheel/tire.

6

Retract the brake caliper pistons into their bore using a large C-clamp. Position the clamp over the caliper and use the clamp screw to push against the brake pad to force the pistons back.

7

Remove the two brake caliper bracket mounting bolts using a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.

8

Lift the caliper and mounting bracket as an assembly off the rotor and secure it to the coil spring using a piece of heavy wire. Leaving the caliper and bracket hanging loose will damage the brake hose connected to the caliper.

9

Remove the rotor from the hub. If the rotor seems stuck, clean the hub and rotor assembly, including the threaded holes in the rotor, with brake parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free rag. Then, if you are changing a front rotor, install two M10-by-1.5 bolts into the threaded holes of the rotor. Tighten the bolts evenly and gradually with a ratchet and socket to pull the rotor free. On rear wheels, rotate as you pull the rotor off the hub. Alternatively, use a slide hammer with a hooked end and pull the rotor from the vents on the edge.

Installing the New Rotor

10

Clean the hub flange-mating surface with brake parts cleaner, a soft brush and a clean, lint-free rag.

11

Wipe the friction surfaces of the new rotor with brake parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free rag to remove the protective film.

12

Position the new rotor in place.

13

Remove the caliper and bracket assembly from the coil spring and set it in place over the rotor.

14

Clean the caliper bracket mounting bolts with a wire brush, brake parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free rag.

15

Coat the threads of the caliper bracket mounting bolts with a threadlocker.

16

Install and start the caliper bracket bolts by hand. Then, tighten the bolts using the ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.

17

Install the tire and, with the lug wrench, tighten the wheel lug nuts.

18

Lower the vehicle and finish tightening the wheel lug nuts.

19

Slowly pump the brake pedal several times to help the caliper pistons and brake pads properly seat over the new rotor.

20

Fill the brake master cylinder with new brake fluid to bring the level up to the "Full" mark.

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4 Years On the Road

The car was registered on this day and rolled out of the showroom EXACTLY four years ago. It was one of the first batch of Peugeot 308 THP140s to arrive on Malayan shores.

Still in pristine condition with very low mileage - just clocked 60,005km. No major issues. 

Accident free and  still sparkling clean inside & out ...

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How to Change the Rear Brake Pads on a Miata

The rear brake pads that come equipped on some Mazda Miata models (also known as the MX-5 Miata) only account for about 30 percent of the braking power for the compact import. Therefore, the front brake pads do more of the work and will require more frequent service. However, the rear pads will eventually have to be replaced since theyre smaller and not as thick as the front brake pads.

Instructions

1

Remove one-third of the brake fluid from the master cylinder in the engine compartment after parking the Miata on a hard level surface suitable for lifting and supporting the vehicle. Discard the fluid.

2

Ensure the parking brake is not engaged and place a tire block in front of one of the front tires.

3

Loosen the rear wheel nuts with the jack wrench by turning them one-quarter turn counterclockwise.

4

Lift the rear of the Miata with the car jack, one side at a time, and then support the car on jack stands in a safe and secure location. Finish removing the wheel nuts and wheels.

5

Locate the manual caliper piston adjustment gear plug on the back side of the caliper housing and pull it out of the housing by hand.

6

Insert a metric Allen wrench key and turn the piston adjustment key counterclockwise until the caliper piston is fully retracted within its bore. Replace the plug after the piston has been retracted.

7

Remove the lower caliper bolt with a metric hand wrench and lift the caliper upward off of the brake pads.

8

Remove the old brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket and then remove the brake pads upper and lower hardware clips from the bracket.

9

Install the new hardware clips onto the bracket and then apply a light coat of silicone brake lubricant to the brake pad contact points on the clips.

10

Insert the new pads onto the hardware clips in the mounting brackets.

11

Pivot the caliper down over the pads and rotor, align the lower caliper mounting bolt and then tighten the bolt to 30-foot pounds with a torque wrench and metric socket. Replace the pads on the opposite side.

12

Replace the wheels and wheel nuts and then tighten them flush to the wheel and hub. Raise the Miata up just enough to remove each jack stand and then lower the Miata slowly to the ground. Torque the wheel nuts to 80-foot pounds with a torque wrench and socket in a crisscross pattern.

13

Ensure the master cylinder cap is secure and then pump the brake pedal several times until it feels normal. This will seat the new pads to the rotors and extend the caliper pistons outward.

14

Recheck the brake fluid in the master cylinder and top off as necessary with new brake fluid only.

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How to Change the Rear Brake Shoes on a Lincoln Mark V

Changing the rear brake shoes on a Lincoln Mark V requires time, concentration and patience. Though the process itself is not overly complicated, the steps required must be followed precisely or you could damage your brake system or even injure yourself if the system fails while youre operating your car. Consequently it is not recommended that you change the brake shoes on your Lincoln without first consulting a knowledgeable mechanic.

Instructions

1

Crack the lug nuts on the rear wheel of your Lincoln before lifting onto a jack. This will enable you to use the pressure of the tire on the ground under the weight of the car for leverage as you try to loosen the nut.

2

Lift your Lincoln with a 5 ton jack and support its rear end with two jack stands.

3

Remove the lug nuts from the rear wheel youre working on first and then remove the tire from the brake drum.

4

Spray the brake drum with penetrating oil. Penetrating oil is a low-viscosity lubricant that allows you to unscrew rusted or otherwise stuck bolts and nuts. It can be purchased at a local car parts store.

5

Remove the return spring from the brake drum using the speciality return spring tool. The return spring tool looks like a pair of pliers and can be purchased at a car parts store.

6

Remove the spring retainer clips using the clips speciality tool by holding the rear of the retaining pin down and inserting the specialty tool over top the front of the clip and turning the tool counter clockwise. The retainer clip specialty tool looks like a screwdriver and can be purchased at a car parts store.

7

Hook up a line wrench onto the brake line connected to the rear drum and loosen the fitting to remove the line.

8

Unscrew the bolts mounting the wheel cylinder so you can remove the wheel cylinder itself.

9

Remove the wheel cylinder so you can remove the old brake shoes.

10

Replace both the brake shoes and the wheel cylinder.

11

Reattach the brake lines.

12

Reassemble the rear wheel brake drum system in reverse order.

13

Adjust and test your new rear brakes. The new brake shoes should lightly contact the brake drum.

14

Bleed the brake system to ensure that it is free of air and leaks.

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The Biggest Modern Motoring Myth!

The biggest myth of all times is Engine/Body Grounding - even for new Peugeot 308 owners are still talking about "grounding" .

Could someone please tell me how the add-on colorful grounding wire with 12mm. sq. copper strands inside can improve grounding while there are already physically connected by massive conductor through out engine, chassis and body?

The add-on grounding is simply redundant!

What the use of additional Grounding then?
Improve sparks? Not quite. Sparks carry a few milliAmps only. The high potential electrons can jump across the gaps. Wire size doesnt matter. The conductance/conductivity is not an issue. In fact the HT lead insulator resistivity is MORE important than the x-section area through which the electrons flow - to prevent sparking occur other than at the spark-plug gaps.

BTW do you all aware how many amperes the current flow to the starter windings to start the engine? Now compare between the summation of all current used to run the other electrical system in the car and the current drawn from the battery during starting.



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How to Take the Brake Calipers off of a 2004 Cavalier

General Motors best selling compact car in 2004 was the Chevrolet Cavalier. The car is great for commuting and fuel mileage getting nearly 37 mpg in the highway. The Cavalier came standard with the 2.2 liter four cylinder engine and was available with either a five-speed manual or four-speed automatic transmission. The one feature this car lacked was standard ABS. Whether you had the optional ABS or not, maintaining the brake system was frequent as the front brake pads did not tend to last very long.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a flat, level surface. Set the parking brake. Place the wheel chocks around the rear wheels. Loosen the front lug nuts 1/4 turn. Lift the front of the vehicle. Place the jack stands under the frame and lower the vehicle. Remove the lug nuts and the front wheels.

2

Loosen the two Allen-head bolts holding the caliper in place. Remove the caliper and hang if from the coil spring using the wire hanger. Remove the brake rotor. If the rotor is not loose install the lug nuts by hand. Strike the rotor between the lug nuts until the rotor comes loose. Remove the lug nuts and the rotor. Clean the hub mating surface well with the wire brush.

3

Install the new rotor. Install one lug nut by hand to hold the rotor in place. Lubricate the caliper slides and the back sides of the brake pads with a thin layer of silicone brake grease. Install the brake pads to the new caliper by clipping them into place making sure that the pads sit flush with the caliper and with the sensors facing up. Install the new caliper and pads onto the vehicle. Torque the caliper bolts to 38 foot-pounds with the torque wrench.

4

Remove the brake line from the old caliper by removing the retaining bolt and install it to the new caliper using new brass sealing rings on both sides of the brake line. Torque the brake line bolt to 37 foot-pounds. Fill the brake master cylinder with the DOT 3 brake fluid. Bleed the front brakes. Have an assistant sit in the vehicle. Instruct your assistant to push down the brake pedal and hold it. Open the caliper bleeder screw and close it immediately. Instruct your assistant to release the brake pedal. Repeat these steps until only a steady stream of fluid comes out of the bleeder screw, checking the brake fluid frequently. Torque the bleeder screws to 115 inch-pounds.

5

Install the front wheels and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds. Lower the vehicle. Pump the brake pedal to make sure that you have good braking pressure.

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How to Replace the Brakes on an Acura 2003 RSX

The brakes on your 2003 Acura RSX are disc brakes. Acura decided to use caliper-and-disc style brakes for all four wheels. This means that all four brakes are changed essentially the same way. The rear brakes have an emergency-brake cable, but thats the only difference. Youll need to replace your brakes when the pad material is around one-eighth of an inch or less. Replacement brakes can be purchased from most auto-parts stores.

Instructions

1

Jack up the front and rear of your RSX using a floor jack. Start with the front. Make sure you are jacking on the factory jack points located behind the radiator and behind the trunk. Place a jack stand under each of the front and rear pinch-weld supports under the vehicle and lower the RSX onto the stands.

2

Unbolt the lug nuts on the wheels using an impact wrench. Then, pull the wheels off of the wheel-hub assemblies.

3

Wrap the C-clamp around the brake caliper so that the screw end of the clamp sits flush against the outboard brake pad. Then, tighten the clamp to compress the caliper piston.

4

Remove the clamp when you can no longer tighten it, and unbolt the upper and lower caliper-mounting bolts and pull the caliper off the brake rotor.

5

Have an assistant hold the brake-caliper assembly. Do not let it hang by the rubber brake hose.

6

Unscrew the two screws in the center of the brake rotor using a screwdriver. Most vehicles dont use mounting screws on their brake rotors. Honda, which makes Acura vehicles, does. It will be impossible to remove the rotor if you dont remove these screws.

7

Slide the rotor off and slide the new rotor on. Installation is the reverse of removal.

8

Remove the old brake pads and insert the new pads into the caliper assembly.

9

Mount the brake caliper and tighten the caliper-mounting bolts to 53 ft-lbs. with a torque wrench. The rest of the installation is the reverse of removal.

10

Repeat steps 2 through 9 for the rest of the brakes. When replacing the rear brakes, the only change in procedure is that you will need to remove the emergency-brake spring from the caliper with a pair of pliers before removing the caliper-mounting bolts.

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How to Replace the Rear Brake Rotors in a 1994 Toyota Celica

The rear brakes on a 1994 Toyota Celica do just a small percentage of the braking in the car, but over time, the rear brakes wear down just as fast as the front. With rear disc brakes, this means getting the stock rotors turned, or replacing them. If your rear rotors have already been turned once, chances are good that youll need to replace them first, which should take about 30 minutes a side.

Instructions

1

Raise the rear of the Celica using the jack and set the car down onto the jack stands. Take off the back wheels with the tire iron.

2

Unbolt the brake caliper from the rear suspension using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket, then hang the caliper from the rear spring using the bungee cord. Install the two 8mm bolts into the threaded holes on the face of the rotor. Tighten them in place with the ratchet until the rotor pops off of the hub. Pull the rotor off with both hands.

3

Slide the replacement rotor onto the wheel hub using your hands, then install two lug nuts using your hands to keep the rotor on the hub. Install the brake caliper onto the rotor with the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket.

4

Remove the wheel lugs with your hands, then reinstall the rear tires using the tire iron. Lower the Celica off the stands with the jack.

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Peugeot 308Turbo wins the “Overall Car of the Year 2009” Award

The winner for the New Straits Times/Maybank 2009 Award were announced at a gala dinner at The Saujana Kuala Lumpur, hosted by the New Straits Times and title sponsor Maybank Berhad.

A panel of 10 judges, comprising motoring editors, an automotive blogger and other distinguished personalities unanimously voted for the Peugeot 308 Turbo as winner of the coveted “Overall Car of The Year” based on its impressive road handling, powerful performance, comfort and safety. Judges were also impressed by the fuel efficiency, and the performance of the 308Turbo 1.6-litre direct injection turbo petrol engine, already an award winner internationally - but it was the 308 Turbo’s competitive price point and build quality that was the key factor in its win.
-CBT-

Congratulations to all Peugeot 308Turbo owners. You had made the right choice! Never say Peugeot 308 is a compact car even though almost everybody thinks so. Take a look again... Peugeot 308 is no small car at all even it is compared to luxury cars like Merc E-Class W211 and BMW 7-series.

Click HERE to compare Peugeot 308 size with other popular cars.

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The Different Types of Automobile Repairs

When a person gets sick, they will go to a doctor. In many cases, after stabilizing a patient in an emergency room, the doctor will then refer them to a specialist that is better equipped to deal with their specific problem. The same thing can be said of the automobile repairs industry. When seeking out automotive repair, make sure a vehicle is sent to the right place.

The garage where a person takes a car that is not working is like a person who is sick going to the doctors office. Once at the repair shop, mechanics will try to find and isolate the problem and decide if it can be fixed on the spot. Then they will give a price for parts and labor then begin fixing the issue. However, one must be careful as some garages may be better suited to dealing with certain types of repairs.

How To Replace Brake Pads

If a car wont start, a mechanical engineer is required to make the repairs. These workers specialize in overall all engine maintenance. Anything from transmission problems, overheating, flat tires, seatbelt failures, horn malfunction, and other mechanical issues like brakes can be fixed at these types of garages. You have probably heard the term "grease monkey" before; it is often used to describe this type of everyday auto mechanic.

The Different Types of Automobile Repairs

Accidents happen and usually will involve some exterior damage to a vehicle. When it is time to make these types of repairs, a vehicle should be brought to body shop. Body shops, using the medical analogy again, are like reconstructive and plastic surgeons. When a vehicle becomes dented or scratched, paint jobs and siding replacements can take place here.

Vehicle maintenance and automobile repairs can be confusing to someone who does not know much about cars. However, if one needs to make repairs to a personal vehicle, then it is imperative that it be taken to the right facility to gain the correct type of help and the best fix. With proper care, a vehicle can remain part of the family for years.

The Different Types of Automobile Repairs
2002 Pontiac Montana #B98B015A in Westerville Columbus, OH Tube. Duration : 0.40 Mins.

www.autotrader.com Ifyou are looking for real value on a great used car, Roush Honda Used Car Company invites you to come in and test drive this 2002 Pontiac Montana, stock# B98B015A. We are conveniently located near Westerville Columbus, OH and known for our great selection, reliability and quality. Come take a look at this 2002 Pontiac Montana today. Roush Honda Used Car Company 5885 Westerville Rd. Westerville Columbus OH, 43123 614-794-3525 Our Hours Are: 9:00 am to 8:00 pm Monday through Thursday 9:00 am to 6:00 pm Friday and Saturday www.roushhonda.com CONTACT DAVE CAMPBELL FOR YOUR BEST DEAL.one owner trade with a clean car fax history.we installed new front brake pads,turned the rotors,balanced the tires,fresh oil change,ready for delivery. we are located at 5885 westerville rd between 270 and 161.You can reach me via the internet at roushhonda.com or call me at 614-794-3525. REMEMBER,CONTACT DAVE CAMPBELL FIRST OR YOU MIGHT PAY TOO MUCH.,6 CD Changer,7 Passenger Seating,ABS,Air Conditioning,AM/FM Stereo,Bucket Seats,Child Safety Locks,Clock,Cloth Seats,Cruise Control,Cup Holders,Daytime Running Lights,Fog/Driving Lamps,Front Reading Lights,Front Wheel Independent Suspension,Heated Side Mirrors,Intermittent Wipers,Multiple Airbags,OnStar System,Outside Temperature Display,Over Head Console,Power Door Locks,Power Outlet,Power Steering,Power Windows,Radio Data System,Rear Cargo Lamp,Rear Defrost,Rear Wiper,Roof Rack,Sliding Driver Side Door,Tachometer,Two-Tone Paint ...

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How to Change the Rotors on a 2007 Pontiac G6

The Pontiac G6 was introduced in 2005, and it replaced the Pontiac Grand Am. The 2007 Pontiac G6 was equipped with a 2.4-liter, in-line four-cylinder in the base model. The 2007 G6 GT was available with a 217-horsepower, 3.5-liter V-6, and an optional 227-horsepower, 3.9-liter V-6. The 2007 G6 GTP was equipped with a 252-horsepower, 3.6-liter V-6. The 2007 G6 rotors are responsible for creating the friction on the brake pads, to bring the car to a stop. If the rotors are warped or too thin, they cannot perform their braking functions effectively.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood of the G6 and check the fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir. Remove brake fluid with a turkey baster or bottle pump siphon, until the brake fluid as about 1/2-inch below the "Full" mark on the reservoir. Install and tighten the reservoir lid.

2

Loosen the front wheel lug nuts with a tire iron. Raise the front of the G6 with a jack. Set jack stands beneath the front sub-frame rails, on either side of the engine. Lower the car onto the stands. Remove the front wheel lug nuts, then remove the front wheels from the car.

3

Remove the caliper bolts from the rear of the caliper, with a ratchet and socket. Remove the caliper from the brake assembly, using a small pry bar, if needed. Hang the caliper from the front strut coil spring with a metal clothes hanger or rod. Remove the brake pads from the caliper bracket, on the outboard and inboard sides of the rotor. Place one of the brake pads against the caliper piston inside the rear of the caliper.

4

Wrap a C-clamp around the brake pad and the back of the caliper housing. Tighten the C-clamp to compress the piston completely. Throw the old brake pads away. Remove the brake pad retainer clips from the caliper bracket, by hand. Remove the caliper bracket bolts from the rear of the steering knuckle, using a ratchet and socket. Remove the old brake rotor, by hand.

5

Install a new brake rotor onto the G6, and finger-tighten a single lug nut against the face of the new rotor. Spray the entire surface of the rotor with aerosol brake spray to thoroughly clean both sides of the rotor. Install the caliper bracket onto the car, then tighten the mounting bolts with your ratchet and a socket. Clean the channels on the caliper bracket where the pads are to be placed, using a wire brush. Install a thin layer of caliper grease on the outward-facing lips of the bracket.

6

Install the brake pad retainer clips onto the caliper bracket, by hand. Install new brake pads onto the caliper bracket, making sure the "L"-shaped metal protrusion is only positioned on the inboard side of the rotor. The "L"-shaped metal piece is the brake wear indicator, and should be situated at the top end of the inboard brake pad when it is installed on the car.

7

Remove the caliper slide pins from the rubber boots on the back of the caliper. Dip the slide pins into your tub of caliper grease, or thoroughly coat them with fresh grease. Insert the pins back into the rubber boots when they are properly lubricated. Remove the caliper from the coil spring and install it over the new pads and rotor. Tighten the caliper mounting bolts to 26 foot-pounds with a 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench and socket.

8

Repeat steps 2 through 8 to complete the rotor and pad replacement on the other side of the G6. Remove the lug nuts from the faces of both rotors, by hand.

9

Install the front wheels onto the G6 and tighten the lug nuts snug with a tire iron. Raise the car off the jack stands, then remove the stands from beneath the car. Lower the G6 to the ground and tighten the front wheel lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds with your torque wrench and a wheel nut socket.

10

Sit in the drivers seat of the G6. Depress the brake pedal about two-thirds of the way down, then release the pedal for 15 seconds. Depress the brake pedal two-thirds of the way down again to finish stiffening the pedal and to seat the new pads and rotors together.

11

Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Add fluid up to the "Full" mark on the reservoir, if necessary. Install and hand-tighten the reservoir cap.

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Preparing for the Driving Season

A few more big Lambos dropping some weight and becoming more agile. Here are two polar opposite Murcielagos being converted from AWD to 2WD:

First up is a standard Murcielago with a manual transforming in a home garage

Second is an e-gear LP640 being transformed with the help of a lift

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How Do I Change the Brake Shoes on a 2001 KIA Sportage

Kia Motors first introduced the Sportage in 1995. The first generation design was discontinued in 2002 before the model was reintroduced in a new configuration in 2005. The pre-2002 models were equipped with drum rear brakes, and changing the brake shoes is a part of good brake maintenance. Doing this job yourself can save both time and money.

Instructions

1

Crack the rear wheel lug nuts with a lug nut wrench, and then jack up the rear of the car. Set the car on jack stands positioned under the marked vehicle lifting points. Completely remove the lug nuts, and then remove the rear wheels.

2

Remove the four hub nuts using a wrench or socket, and remove the drum by pulling it straight off the hub. If the hub is stubborn, tap the edges with a hammer, using a piece of wood to protect metal edges.

3

Remove the adjuster lever spring by grasping the spring end nearest the adjuster lever with pliers and lifting the hooked spring end off the adjuster lever. Remove the return spring by grasping the long end of the spring with pliers and unhooking it.

4

Turn the adjuster star wheel clockwise to relieve the tension on the brake shoes. Remove the adjuster assembly by lifting it up until the slots on either end are no longer engaged with the brake shoes.

5

Rotate the two hold-down pins until they align with the grooves in the hold-down pin clips. Remove the hold-down pins by slipping them through the grooves in the clips, and then remove the hold down pin clips.

6

Remove the primary brake shoe by pulling it straight out.

7

Remove the secondary brake shoe by carefully pulling it straight out, taking care not to kink the attached parking brake cable. Use pliers to remove the parking brake cable from the secondary shoe. Remove the control lever retaining clip by spreading it slightly with a large screwdriver, grasping the clip with pliers and pulling it off. Remove the control lever from the secondary brake shoe.

8

Measure the diameter of the drum at several points using the drum micrometer. Maximum acceptable diameter is 9.89 inches. If the drum diameter exceeds this, then it must be replaced. The drum diameter should be the same at all points measured. The interior surface should be free from grooves and cracks.

9

Clean the backing plate with brake cleaner. Separate the adjuster star wheel, clean the parts with brake cleaner and coat the threads with anti-seize compound before reassembling. Also apply anti-seize compound to the backing plate at the points where the brake shoes contact the plate.

10

Reassemble the brake assembly by reversing the previous steps. Use new springs and clips rather than reusing the old ones. Before reattaching the drum, be sure the adjusting lever contacts the star wheel. Rotate the star wheel until the outside diameter formed by the shoes (as measured with the drum micrometer) is 0.020 to 0.040 inches less than the drum inside diameter. The star wheel can be rotated by placing a screwdriver blade between the teeth of the star and moving the wheel assembly in the desired direction. Install the drum, install the wheels and test the brakes.

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How to Replace the Rear Brakes on a 2003 Ford Focus

The rear brakes on the Ford Focus are drum brakes with shoes that work with the parking brake as well as the rear wheels. These types of brakes are assembled onto the drum assembly using multiple springs and levers. This makes replacing brake shoes more difficult than replacing front brake pads.

Instructions

Accessing the Brake Shoes

1

Block the front wheels, release the parking brake and put the car into first gear. Raise the cars rear end, support it on axle stands or jack stands and remove the front wheels.

2

Disconnect the ABS wiring connector if one is present.

3

Disconnect the rear drum and brake assembly by unscrewing the four bolts at the rear of the hub assembly with a wrench.

4

Clean the entire assembly with brake cleaner, letting the residue drip into a drain pan, and wait for the assembly to dry. Take note of how the brake shoes and springs are installed as you do this.

Removing Old Shoes

5

Depress the ends of the hold-down springs on the brake shoes with pliers so you can withdraw the springs from the pins. Remove the pins from the back of the plate.

6

Disconnect the shoes top ends from the wheel cylinder; install an elastic band or wire over the cylinders/pistons to keep them from ejecting. Pull the shoes bottom end off the bottom anchor.

7

Pull back the parking brake cable spring from the operating lever at the back of the rear shoe and unhook the cable end from the lever with pliers. You can now remove the brake shoes.

8

Unhook the lower return spring from the shoes by moving the bottom ends of the shoes together, then pull the front shoe from the strut and brake shoe adjuster and unhook the upper spring. Take note of the holes the springs are in.

9

Disengage the adjustment strut by pulling it to remove it from the rear shoe. Remove the strut support spring.

Installing New Shoes

10

Clean the backing plate with the brake cleaner and apply a small amount of high-temperature brake grease to the brake shoe contact points and the sliding components of the brake shoe adjuster.

11

Assemble the new brake shoes by connecting the strut support spring and adjustment strut to the rear shoe, connecting the leading shoe to the strut and brake shoe adjuster and connecting the return springs.

12

Install the shoes by connecting the parking brake cable to the rear shoe, inserting the shoes bottom end on the bottom anchor and then connecting the top ends to the cylinder. Set the eccentric cam to its lowest position before connecting it to the rear shoe.

13

Re-connect the shoes hold-down pins and springs.

14

Install the brake drum back on the cylinder, tightening the bolts to 49 foot-pounds.

15

Replace the wheels and lower the car once youve changed the brakes on both sides.

16

Press the brake pedal several times to set the shoes at their normal operating position.

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How to Check the Thickness of Brake Pads

Automotive brake technicians gauge the lifespan of brake pads by measuring the thickness of the pad material. Most pads begin with 5 to 7 mm of pad and require replacement when they fall below 3 mm. You dont need factory training in order to check the thickness of the brake pads on your vehicle. Even if you never plan on performing a brake job, it is good to know how to check the thickness of brake pads so you have a better understanding when speaking with a mechanic. Anyone with minimal mechanical aptitude can do this.

Instructions

1

Access the brake pad by either looking through your wheel or removing the wheel from the vehicle if it does not provide enough clearance to properly see the pads. Remove the wheel by loosening the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Lift the vehicle with the floor jack and support it on the jack stand before taking the lug nuts and wheel off by hand.

2

Hold the thin metal ruler or the tire tread depth gauge against the side of the brake pad and note the thickness. Make sure to measure only the pad and not the steel backing plate.

3

Repeat step two in two other places on the brake pad to make sure you have an accurate measurement. Some pads have beveled leading and trailing edges, which can give a false sense of the pads true thickness.

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How to Repair the Rear Disc Brakes on a 2004 Ford F250 Super Duty

Replacing the brakes on your Ford F250 Super Duty is a great way to solve a problem and save money on an expensive trip to the repair shop. The rear brakes are smaller than the fronts because they are not used as much during braking, so dont be surprised if the replacement pads look a little smaller than the pads for the front brakes.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle in a flat area and chock the front wheels. Loosen the rear lug nuts but dont remove them. Raise the rear of the truck off the ground, remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel.

2

Remove the two long bolts holding the caliper in place. Once these have been removed, the caliper will swing off the wheel. Be careful not to let it hang on the brake line as this may damage the line.

3

Slide the pads out from the caliper. The pads are not attached by anything, but they may have become sticky, so pull them firmly.

4

Compress the caliper piston with the clamp. This will raise the level of brake fluid in the reservoir, so make sure you dont make it overflow. If you need to, you can siphon off any extra fluid.

5

Swing the caliper back into place over the rotor and the new brake pads. Gradually reduce the pressure on the caliper piston and the caliper will accept the new pads. Check the level of brake fluid in the reservoir and top it up if you need to.

6

Replace the two bolts that hold the caliper in place.

7

Replace the wheel and hand-tighten the lug bolts. Lower the car from the jack stands and torque the lug bolts to spec.

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How to Prepare Your Motorcycle to Ride on the Racetrack

Clean your motorcycle. This allows you to double check all key areas to make sure nothing is loose (which will be relevant in step 10.) It also makes it easier to check the motorcycle at technical inspection (the day of the event.)

Remove your center stand. This is for safety on the track. Almost all organizations require center stand removal. This is especially true for the more advanced (and therefore faster) groups. Some organizations and tracks may ask you to also remove your kickstand (side stand.)

Remove or tape up your mirrors. Sometimes removal is not an option, since it may be the only way your fairing is supported. In that case, tape up the mirrors so that if they contact the ground, the glass does not fall out on to the track surface.

Tape up your headlight(s)and signals. This includes the tail light and license plate light. If you can, remove the fuse for the headlight. With the headlight off, it reduces that chance of tape residue sticking to your headlight. Make sure to put the fuse back in before riding on the street again.

Check all of your controls, meaning clutch cable, throttle cable, brake lever, clutch lever, rear brake lever, and kill switch for proper operation. If they fail tech, you will have to get them fixed before you are allowed on the track. Doing it before you get to the track saves you stress if you have to do it while you are at the track. You are anticipating getting on the track and now you have to work on the motorcycle. Very stressful.

When you check your brakes, make sure you have enough brake pads to make it through the event. Riding hard on the racetrack will also cause you to use your brakes even harder. If you have new brakes pads installed before the event, try to get them seated and bedded in before the event.

Check your tires, both for tread wear and depth. Usually new or nearly new tires are required in order to pass tech. Badly worn tires will not pass tech and you may also be able to notice any unusual wear patterns on your tires, which might save you some aggravation early. An example of unusual wear would be bald sides on your front tire with tread in the center. This would indicate low front tire pressure, with the tire (tread) smoothing out while leaned over (turning) but keeping its shape while riding straight up and down.

Check your tire pressures and inspect your rims for damage (see step above.) You will probably have to adjust tire pressures before you get on the track, depending on various factors: your weight, the brand, the temperature, and the track surface. Check with your owners manual, the track day organization, and your local tire representative for the best pressures for those conditions.

Clean and check your chain for proper slack and lubrication. You should not have a chain that is too loose or too tight. Check your owners manual for proper slack. Also make sure your chain is lubricated to prevent binding.

Make sure all your bodywork is properly supported and fastened. Do not have loose or flapping bodywork, it will fail tech inspection. Try not to have fur or other loose, flapping objects on your motorcycle. You will be asked to have those items removed before you can pass tech inspection and are allowed on the track.

Check your oil level. Try to change the oil if it has been a while to ensure that you have the best engine protection possible. The engine will be working especially hard on the track and dirty oil makes the job harder.

Drain your radiator and replace the glycol based coolant with water and a coolant substitute, such as Water Wetter or Engine Ice. Glycol based coolants are not allowed on the racetrack since they do not evaporate and leave the track surface slick (like oil.)

Secure your wheel weights (taped) on the rims. It prevents them from flying off while you are at high speed.

Make sure you have good valve stems and valve caps on your wheels.

If you have hard point saddle bags, remove the bags. The mounts can usually stay.

If you have auxiliary lights, it is a good idea to remove them. If they are fork mounted, they adversely affect handling and if they are frame mounted, they may become damaged in the event of a dropped bike. If you leave the lights on, tape them up. (If you have an on/off switch, leave them off. If you cannot turn them off, remove the fuse.)

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Selling your 308 to buy the 408

Think a second...
Will you kick out your French babe for a China doll? Think about it again... BTW, Im not in mood to write anything about the 408 after seing the car last Sunday at a nearby showroom.

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