How to Replace the Front Brake Rotor on a 94 Ford Exp 4x4

The braking system on the Ford Explorer 4X4 makes use of hydraulics to slow and stop the vehicle. When you push the brake pedal with your foot, the master cylinder is activated, and it pushes fluid through the brake lines to the calipers. The brake calipers then squeeze the rotors between them and the friction causes the Explorer to slow down and stop. The friction causes the brakes and rotors to wear and when the rotors reach the minimum thickness of 0.810 inches, you must discard and replace them.

Instructions

1

Park the Ford Explorer on a level surface and turn off the key. Put the wheel chocks behind the rear tires of the vehicle. Lift the Explorer with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under it close to the jacking point and raise it to the frame.

2

Remove the lug nuts from the wheel with the lug wrench and pull the tire from the Ford. Loosen the caliper bolts with a socket and ratchet. Pull the caliper from the mounting bracket and secure it to the strut with a wire tie. If you allow the caliper to hang, it will damage the brake hose.

3

Carefully pry the grease cap from the wheel hub using the screwdriver. Remove the cotter pin from the shaft using the pliers. Remove the locking nut using a wrench. Remove the adjusting nut using the wrench and then pull the flat washer from the shaft.

4

Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub. Be careful not to drop the bearings. Remove the hub and rotor assembly from the spindle.

5

Install the new rotor along with the hub assembly. Insert the roller assembly and the bearing cone. Pack the bearings with wheel grease. Slide the flat washer on the shaft. Install the adjusting nut and tighten it with a wrench. Install the lock nut and tighten it with a wrench. Install a new cotter pin and spread it open with the pliers.

6

Place some wheel grease over the assembly and carefully tap the grease cap into place with the rubber mallet. Cut the wire tie holding the caliper to the strut with the pliers. Place the caliper into the mounting cradle and tighten the locking pins with the socket and ratchet. Install the wheel on the Explorer and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.

7

Remove the jack stand from under the Explorer and lower the vehicle to the ground. Repeat the procedure on the other wheel. Pump the brake several times when the project is complete to be sure that the brake pads bare resting on the rotors.

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How to Replace the Mirror Glass in a 2001 Honda Accord

Over time, the reflective paint used on the rearview mirror for your 2001 Honda Accord may start to deteriorate. This causes yellow patches to appear on the mirror, thus preventing you from seeing everything going on behind you. A small amount of yellowing may not cause a problem but as the issue progresses, you may fail inspection. Honda dealerships can get you a replacement mirror but it only takes a few minutes to install it. To avoid paying the dealership to install the mirror, complete the job on your own.

Instructions

1

Remove the set-screw from the base of the rearview mirror. The set-screw holds the mirror onto the mounting tab. Use a number 8 Torx driver to remove the screw.

2

Side the rearview mirror upward off the mounting tab glued to the windshield of the Accord.

3

Slide the replacement mirror onto the mounting tab.

4

Secure the mirror to the mounting tab with the set-screw.

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How to Change the Rotors on a 2500 Chevy

If you have detected a worn or damaged brake rotor on your 2500 Chevy model, you need to change it as soon as possible. Although a relatively simple task, removal and installation requires proper handling of brake assembly components and a new rotor to prevent damage, ensure the good operation of the brake system and keep you safe on the road. With the required tools, and possible tools you may need handy, you can safely perform the job at home.

Instructions

Removing the Rotor

1

Park your Chevy pickup in a safe and level place. Shift the transmission to neutral (N).

2

Using a clean rag, clean the cap and body of the brake master cylinder reservoir.

3

Draw at least two-thirds of the brake fluid from the master cylinder using a clean turkey baster and an appropriate container. Set the cap back in place but loose.

4

With a lug wrench, loosen the wheel lug nuts on the wheel/tire assembly with the rotor you are changing.

5

Raise the wheel/tire assembly using a floor jack and support it on a jack stand. Finish removing the wheel/tire.

6

Retract the brake caliper pistons into their bore using a large C-clamp. Position the clamp over the caliper and use the clamp screw to push against the brake pad to force the pistons back.

7

Remove the two brake caliper bracket mounting bolts using a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.

8

Lift the caliper and mounting bracket as an assembly off the rotor and secure it to the coil spring using a piece of heavy wire. Leaving the caliper and bracket hanging loose will damage the brake hose connected to the caliper.

9

Remove the rotor from the hub. If the rotor seems stuck, clean the hub and rotor assembly, including the threaded holes in the rotor, with brake parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free rag. Then, if you are changing a front rotor, install two M10-by-1.5 bolts into the threaded holes of the rotor. Tighten the bolts evenly and gradually with a ratchet and socket to pull the rotor free. On rear wheels, rotate as you pull the rotor off the hub. Alternatively, use a slide hammer with a hooked end and pull the rotor from the vents on the edge.

Installing the New Rotor

10

Clean the hub flange-mating surface with brake parts cleaner, a soft brush and a clean, lint-free rag.

11

Wipe the friction surfaces of the new rotor with brake parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free rag to remove the protective film.

12

Position the new rotor in place.

13

Remove the caliper and bracket assembly from the coil spring and set it in place over the rotor.

14

Clean the caliper bracket mounting bolts with a wire brush, brake parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free rag.

15

Coat the threads of the caliper bracket mounting bolts with a threadlocker.

16

Install and start the caliper bracket bolts by hand. Then, tighten the bolts using the ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.

17

Install the tire and, with the lug wrench, tighten the wheel lug nuts.

18

Lower the vehicle and finish tightening the wheel lug nuts.

19

Slowly pump the brake pedal several times to help the caliper pistons and brake pads properly seat over the new rotor.

20

Fill the brake master cylinder with new brake fluid to bring the level up to the "Full" mark.

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How to Remove a Frozen Brake Rotor

The word "frozen" is used often in the automotive repair industry and is often misunderstood. For example, depending on where you live, it is not uncommon to have rotors frozen to the hub of the vehicle. It doesnt mean that all it needs is to thaw out. It means that rust, corrosion, and oxidation have fused the rotor to the hub. Before you try to remove "frozen" rotors, prepare for the job, or else you will almost certainly damage the rotor. The following steps show how to remove a rotor correctly and reuse it, and to remove and replace it.

Instructions

Remove and Reuse a Frozen Brake Rotor

1

Put on the safety glasses since youre trying to remove something stuck on a vehicle by rust. With the vehicle on the lift, or on jack stands, and the wheels and calipers removed, make sure there are no retaining rings on the lug studs of the rotor, or retaining screws holding the rotor to the hub.

2

Spray a liberal amount of lubricant on the hub of the rotor where it seats around the hub bearing. Check to see of there are small bolts holes on the hub face of the rotor. If there are, you can try to thread in bolts (usually 2), but the width and thread pitch of the bolts will vary. Once youve found the correct bolt(s), thread them in until they bottom out against the hub. Tighten the bolts alternately about three times each then switch to the other using the ratchet and a socket, and as the bolt tightens, it will pull the rotor away from the hub. If the rotor is "frozen" badly, chances are it will strip out the bolt or bolt hole threads and youll have to try another method.

3

Spray more lubricant onto the rotor and hub bearing seam. Strike the rotor with a large rubber mallet. Strike it on the plate of the fin from behind and from the front alternating strikes. You can light the torch and heat the seam and hub face of the rotor and the edge of the hub of the rotor and continue to strike it with the mallet. The hotter the rotor gets, the lesser the chances are of saving it.

4

Use the slide hammer with a rotor removal adapter. This is an L-shaped adapter that screws onto the end of the slide hammer and sits down behind the rear fin plate of the rotor. Slam the slide hammer and move it often to shock the rotor from the hub and eventually remove it.

5

Since the rotor was "frozen" to the hub, clean the face of the hub and the edges where the replacement rotor will sit. Use a medium-grade sandpaper, or better yet, a pneumatic die grinder and a coarse sanding disk. Clean it thoroughly. Apply a light coat of a high temperature anti-seize lubricant on the seam of the hub bearing where the hub of the rotor will sit over and along the edge of the hub bearing which will be seated against the inside hub plate of the rotor. This is where the rust and fusion generally occur, and this lubricant will help future extractions of the rotor so such measures will not have to take place.

Remove and Replace a Frozen Brake Rotor

6

Spray the hub of the rotor where it seams to the hub bearing and strike the plate fin of the rotor with a 2-pound sledge hammer. Strike it from behind and from the front and move the rotor by turning it to hit a different spot. This usually works as long as youre hitting it with enough force to shock it from the hub.

7

Light the torch and heat up the hub face, around the lug studs, and on the side of the hub of the rotor and get it very hot. Once its heated up, turn off the torch quickly and continue to strike it with the sledge hammer. This is in some extreme cases, but continuing to do this usually works. You may have to heat the hub of the rotor a few times and continue to strike it with the hammer.

8

Plug in the pneumatic impact hammer with a stud removal bit to start if you still have not been able to remove the rotor. You can alter the bits around as you begin to work the rotor off. Start by impacting the flat of the hub of the rotor where it seats against the hub bearing. This will help vibrate the rust fusion apart. Next position the impact hammer so that its contacting the inside plate fin of the rotor and pushing it outward. Again, turn the rotor to alternate the position. This is the last straw kind of step, but will work as long as you remain diligent. Caution needs to be applied on this procedure so you do not incur damage to the hub bearing beneath the rotor.

9

Since the rotor was "frozen" to the hub, clean the face of the hub and the edges where the replacement rotor will sit. Use a medium-grade sandpaper, or better yet, a pneumatic die grinder and a coarse sanding disk. Clean it thoroughly. Apply a light coat of a high temperature anti-seize lubricant on the seam of the hub bearing where the hub of the rotor will sit over and along the edge of the hub bearing which will be seated against the inside hub plate of the rotor. This is where the rust and fusion generally occur, and this lubricant will help future extractions of the rotor so such measures will not have to take place.

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How to Repair a 1996 Plymouth Neon Window

For an older vehicle such as a 1996 Plymouth Neon, maintenance and repairs are common. One thing you may not expect to creep up on you is a cracked window, but that is actually one of the easiest repairs to make. Gather your supplies and get the repair job done.

Instructions

1

Clean the damaged window with a solution of soap and water. Use soft cloths to both wash and dry.

2

Use the razor blade to remove any loose pieces of glass from within the cracks. Make sure you have your goggles on for safety purposes.

3

Place the injector into the stabilizer at the site dedicated for the injector.

4

Put the plastic resin tube into the injector and then remove the injector once the resin is in place. The resin will quickly flow out of the tube and into the cracks.

5

Remove the stabilizer once the tube has emptied and the cracks have been filled. Carefully lift it off the window so as not to smudge the repair.

6

Place the curing strip over the resin until it is dry.

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How to Repair Leaky Windshields

A leaky windshield is a symptom of a poor contact seal at the windshield glass edge. Over time, anything from severe elements to an automobile accident can cause the glass to shift, breaking the seal. When this happens, water leaks into the cabin. The only way to fix this is to remove the molding around the windshield and reseal the glass edge.

Instructions

1

Wedge the tip of the trim molding removal tool underneath the trim around the windshield. Pry up on the molding to remove it.

2

Inspect the molding for any damage or wear. Try to locate the source of the leak. You may need to run a water hose over the surface of the glass near the glass edge to find out exactly where it is leaking inside the cabin.

3

Trim back the existing urethane molding on the windshield with an automotive cutting knife. These are knives designed to cut urethane molding. (Your local auto parts store will carry them.) Youll want to make sure that you expose the area where the seal has broken and clean it up with the knife.

4

Apply a fresh bead of urethane sealant to the affected area and allow it to dry. Drying times may vary depending on weather conditions, humidity and other factors.

5

Insert the window molding. Youll need to force the trim back into place around the glass edge, pushing it down with the tip of the trim tool.

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How to Remove a Door Window in a 2001 Ford F 250

The 2001 Ford F-250 Super Duty pickup is the mid-sized truck in Fords non-commercial F-Series fleet. Ford offered the 2001 F-250 with three different cab configurations: standard, super cab and super crew. If the door window glass incurs a scratch or chip, youll most likely need to replace it. An auto glass company can buff out surface scratches that arent deep enough to catch on your fingernail. Anything deeper than that requires window replacement. Always use caution when handling auto glass as the sheer weight of the glass if dropped and broken can deliver life-threatening lacerations in the blink of an eye.

Instructions

1

Open the F-250s window fully. Pry the sail panel trim off the F-250s door. The sail panel is the triangular trim piece located at the leading upper-edge of the door panel, on the backside of the doors A-pillar.

2

Pry the window and lock switch off the door panel using the trim tool. Disconnect the body harness from the switches and then set the switch bezel aside.

3

Pry the courtesy-light lens off the bottom trailing-edge of the door panel using the trim tool. Remove the hex-head screw behind the window switch bezel and the courtesy-light lens using the socket wrench and 7 mm socket.

4

Lift the door panel off the door by hand. Unplug the courtesy light from the body harness before moving the panel away to a safe location.

5

Lift the window to the top of the window frame --- you may need to temporarily reconnect the window switch to raise the window electronically. Secure the window to the top of the frame using packing tape. Unbolt the window glass from the window regulator using a socket wrench and 8 mm socket.

6

Support the window glass with one hand while removing the packing tape with the other. Lower the glass far enough to grab the top of the glass with both hands from the outside of the F-250. Tilt the glass forward and lift it up and out of the F-250s door through the outside of the window.

7

Set the old glass down in a safe location. Tilt the new glass forward and slide it down into the door from the outside. Tilt the glass back into the door, so it sits level and then raise it to the top of the window frame.

8

Secure the new glass to the top of the door with packing tape. Bolt the new glass to the window regulator using the socket and wrench. Remove the packing tape.

9

Reconnect the window switch temporarily and lower the window down into the door. Disconnect the switch. Slide the door panel onto the door.

10

Reinstall the two door-panel retaining screws with the socket wrench and 7 mm socket. Snap the courtesy-light lens into the door panel.

11

Plug the window and lock switches into the body harness, and snap the window switch bezel back into the door panel. Reinstall the sail panel by snapping it back into place. Clean the new window glass with a cotton rag and automotive window cleaner.

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How to Change the Rear Brake Pads on a Miata

The rear brake pads that come equipped on some Mazda Miata models (also known as the MX-5 Miata) only account for about 30 percent of the braking power for the compact import. Therefore, the front brake pads do more of the work and will require more frequent service. However, the rear pads will eventually have to be replaced since theyre smaller and not as thick as the front brake pads.

Instructions

1

Remove one-third of the brake fluid from the master cylinder in the engine compartment after parking the Miata on a hard level surface suitable for lifting and supporting the vehicle. Discard the fluid.

2

Ensure the parking brake is not engaged and place a tire block in front of one of the front tires.

3

Loosen the rear wheel nuts with the jack wrench by turning them one-quarter turn counterclockwise.

4

Lift the rear of the Miata with the car jack, one side at a time, and then support the car on jack stands in a safe and secure location. Finish removing the wheel nuts and wheels.

5

Locate the manual caliper piston adjustment gear plug on the back side of the caliper housing and pull it out of the housing by hand.

6

Insert a metric Allen wrench key and turn the piston adjustment key counterclockwise until the caliper piston is fully retracted within its bore. Replace the plug after the piston has been retracted.

7

Remove the lower caliper bolt with a metric hand wrench and lift the caliper upward off of the brake pads.

8

Remove the old brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket and then remove the brake pads upper and lower hardware clips from the bracket.

9

Install the new hardware clips onto the bracket and then apply a light coat of silicone brake lubricant to the brake pad contact points on the clips.

10

Insert the new pads onto the hardware clips in the mounting brackets.

11

Pivot the caliper down over the pads and rotor, align the lower caliper mounting bolt and then tighten the bolt to 30-foot pounds with a torque wrench and metric socket. Replace the pads on the opposite side.

12

Replace the wheels and wheel nuts and then tighten them flush to the wheel and hub. Raise the Miata up just enough to remove each jack stand and then lower the Miata slowly to the ground. Torque the wheel nuts to 80-foot pounds with a torque wrench and socket in a crisscross pattern.

13

Ensure the master cylinder cap is secure and then pump the brake pedal several times until it feels normal. This will seat the new pads to the rotors and extend the caliper pistons outward.

14

Recheck the brake fluid in the master cylinder and top off as necessary with new brake fluid only.

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How To Replace brake pads for disk brakes

How-To Replace brake pads for disk brakes. Tube. Duration : 10.90 Mins.

A video tutorial on how to change worn brake pads for disk brakes.

Keywords: maintenance, change, brake pads, brakes, how to, j-smooth, curtis, j-bone, chevy, help, fix, tools, landmark, red, napa, pads, awesome, funy, intense, helpful

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How to Change Automobile Brake Pads

Replacing brake pads is a straight forward procedure that anyone with a set of basic tools can perform. All that you need is an hour, some attention to detail, and the right tools for the job. Replace the brakes on your car in no time following these instructions.

Instructions

1

Apply the parking brake and chock the rear wheels with bricks or blocks. This prevents the car from rolling backward while you jack it up. Using the lug wrench, loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels. Do not remove the lug nuts yet.

2

Slide the jack under the front of the car, positioning it under the front cross member. Jack the car up until you can place jack stands under the cross member, right by the control arm. Remove the lug nuts and wheels from the vehicle.

3

Use the large screwdriver to pry the brake pads away from the rotor. Then, still using the large screwdriver with the tip against the pad, pry the caliper piston into the caliper body. You will have to do this on the inboard and outboard pads. Brake fluid might drip from the master cylinder but this is normal.

4

Inspect the brake rotor for gouges. If you find gouges you replace the rotors. If the rotors look good, use the small flat-bladed screwdriver to remove the two clips from the slides that hold the pads in place. Slide the pins out carefully. Watch for the anti-rattle clips because they can fly out.

5

Remove and inspect the brake pads from the caliper. The pads should have brake pad material on them with no signs of rubbing against the rotor. If there are signs of rubbing you should replace your rotors.

6

Inspect the new pads to ensure that they are the same as the old pads. Put anti-seize compound on the sides of the pads to help them slide smoothly in the caliper. You should also put anti-seize on the back of the pad then install the shim and put anti-seize on the back of the shim. Put the anti-rattle clip on the top of the pad and put Anti-Seize in the curves where the slide pins will go.

7

Carefully slide the outboard pad, shim and anti-rattle clip into the caliper and put the two slide pins in. Then install the inboard pad, shim and anti-rattle clip and slide the slide pins all the way through the caliper. Make sure the brake material is facing the rotor. Once the caliper pins are fully seated, install the retaining clips.

8

Put the wheels and lug nuts back on the car. Tighten the lug nuts only finger tight at this point. Jack the car up enough to remove the jack stands, then lower it completely. Torque the lug nuts to specification. If you dont know the specification, read through your cars owners manual, or ask a local auto parts store.

9

Press on the brake pedal a few times to regain firmness in the pedal. When the brake pedal is firm, remove the wheel chocks and disengage the parking brake. Take the car around the block for a short test drive to test the brakes to make sure they are working properly.

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How to Replace a Rear Brake Rotor on a 1996 Explorer

If you have noticed track marks or prominent wear on your brake rotor, it may be to replace it. Squealing brakes or a soft response when you press on the brake pedal are other clues that replacement may be in order. Replacing the rotors on the rear brakes on a 1996 Ford Explorer is a task that the average owner can perform. Its relatively quick and just takes the right tools and a little elbow grease.

Instructions

1

Put on a filtered face mask and safety glasses before you begin operating on your brakes, since brake pad dust may contain small amounts of asbestos.

2

Jack up the rear end of your 1996 Ford Explorer, place it on jack stands, and remove the wheel. Inspect the rotor for track marks or prevalent wear to confirm it does indeed need replacing.

3

Remove the rear brake caliper by loosening and removing the mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Lift the caliper gently from the caliper mount, paying extra attention to avoid damage to the brake fluid line.

4

Remove the brake pads and hardware. Loosen and remove the rear brake caliper mounting bolts with a socket wrench or another appropriate tool. Remove the caliper mount gently from the vehicle.

5

Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole and tap the rotor with a rubber mallet to release any rust buildup between it and the bearing hub. Lift the rotor away from the vehicle with both hands, being careful not to drop it. If the rotor is extremely rusted, turn and pull simultaneously while applying more force.

6

Clean the mating surface on the wheel hub and place the new rotor into position. Reconstruct the brake system in the reverse order. Put the wheel back on and check the rotor on the opposite side (often brake systems wear quite evenly).

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How to Change the Rear Brake Shoes on a Lincoln Mark V

Changing the rear brake shoes on a Lincoln Mark V requires time, concentration and patience. Though the process itself is not overly complicated, the steps required must be followed precisely or you could damage your brake system or even injure yourself if the system fails while youre operating your car. Consequently it is not recommended that you change the brake shoes on your Lincoln without first consulting a knowledgeable mechanic.

Instructions

1

Crack the lug nuts on the rear wheel of your Lincoln before lifting onto a jack. This will enable you to use the pressure of the tire on the ground under the weight of the car for leverage as you try to loosen the nut.

2

Lift your Lincoln with a 5 ton jack and support its rear end with two jack stands.

3

Remove the lug nuts from the rear wheel youre working on first and then remove the tire from the brake drum.

4

Spray the brake drum with penetrating oil. Penetrating oil is a low-viscosity lubricant that allows you to unscrew rusted or otherwise stuck bolts and nuts. It can be purchased at a local car parts store.

5

Remove the return spring from the brake drum using the speciality return spring tool. The return spring tool looks like a pair of pliers and can be purchased at a car parts store.

6

Remove the spring retainer clips using the clips speciality tool by holding the rear of the retaining pin down and inserting the specialty tool over top the front of the clip and turning the tool counter clockwise. The retainer clip specialty tool looks like a screwdriver and can be purchased at a car parts store.

7

Hook up a line wrench onto the brake line connected to the rear drum and loosen the fitting to remove the line.

8

Unscrew the bolts mounting the wheel cylinder so you can remove the wheel cylinder itself.

9

Remove the wheel cylinder so you can remove the old brake shoes.

10

Replace both the brake shoes and the wheel cylinder.

11

Reattach the brake lines.

12

Reassemble the rear wheel brake drum system in reverse order.

13

Adjust and test your new rear brakes. The new brake shoes should lightly contact the brake drum.

14

Bleed the brake system to ensure that it is free of air and leaks.

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landroverworkshopDVD com how to change landrover and discovery wheelbearings brake pads and discs

PART2 of 3 showing how to change landrover defender discovery and range rover classic wheeelbearings wheel hubs and brake discs. Tips on what to do and what not to do. lots more on www.LandroverworkshopDVD.com www.Diy-Dvds.com www.Spanish4X4Expedition.com

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How to Replace a Blazers Disc Brakes

If you have a Chevy Blazer, and youve been hearing abnormal squealing noises from your brakes, or grinding as you come to a stop, its time to replace your disc brakes. Performing this task yourself at home can save you a significant amount of money and time waiting on a repair shop to get around to it. Replace the rotors along with the brake pads to extend the life of your brakes and ensure the best braking performance.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of your Blazer with the jack. Set the the jack stands on either side beneath the front axle. Lower your Blazer onto the jack stands.

2

Unbolt both front wheels with the tire iron, twist the bolts counterclockwise until they come out and set them aside.

3

Unbolt the caliper from the mounting bracket on the right side of the axle by using a ratchet. Hang the caliper from the axle with the rope.

4

Hammer around the middle of the brake rotor where the lug studs are, to loosen it. Pull the brake rotor forward until it comes off the axle.

5

Spray the brake cleaner over the entire surface area of the replacement brake rotor to remove the layer of grease coating the rotor.

6

Slide the replacement rotor onto the axle. Pop the old brake pads out of the caliper manually and push the new brake pads down in their place. Position the caliper in the rotor and secure the bolts that hold everything to the steering knuckle with the ratchet.

7

Compress the caliper with the C-clamp. Use the ratchet to attach the caliper to the caliper mounting bracket. Repeat the procedure for the brakes on the front, drivers side. Replace the wheels, lower the Blazer and tighten the lug nuts.

8

Raise your Blazer with the jack and move the jack stands to both sides of the rear axle. Lower your Blazer onto the stands and repeat the steps you followed for the front brakes to replace the rear brakes. Replace the wheels, lower the SUV off the jack and jack stands and tighten the lug nuts.

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How to Take the Brake Calipers off of a 2004 Cavalier

General Motors best selling compact car in 2004 was the Chevrolet Cavalier. The car is great for commuting and fuel mileage getting nearly 37 mpg in the highway. The Cavalier came standard with the 2.2 liter four cylinder engine and was available with either a five-speed manual or four-speed automatic transmission. The one feature this car lacked was standard ABS. Whether you had the optional ABS or not, maintaining the brake system was frequent as the front brake pads did not tend to last very long.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a flat, level surface. Set the parking brake. Place the wheel chocks around the rear wheels. Loosen the front lug nuts 1/4 turn. Lift the front of the vehicle. Place the jack stands under the frame and lower the vehicle. Remove the lug nuts and the front wheels.

2

Loosen the two Allen-head bolts holding the caliper in place. Remove the caliper and hang if from the coil spring using the wire hanger. Remove the brake rotor. If the rotor is not loose install the lug nuts by hand. Strike the rotor between the lug nuts until the rotor comes loose. Remove the lug nuts and the rotor. Clean the hub mating surface well with the wire brush.

3

Install the new rotor. Install one lug nut by hand to hold the rotor in place. Lubricate the caliper slides and the back sides of the brake pads with a thin layer of silicone brake grease. Install the brake pads to the new caliper by clipping them into place making sure that the pads sit flush with the caliper and with the sensors facing up. Install the new caliper and pads onto the vehicle. Torque the caliper bolts to 38 foot-pounds with the torque wrench.

4

Remove the brake line from the old caliper by removing the retaining bolt and install it to the new caliper using new brass sealing rings on both sides of the brake line. Torque the brake line bolt to 37 foot-pounds. Fill the brake master cylinder with the DOT 3 brake fluid. Bleed the front brakes. Have an assistant sit in the vehicle. Instruct your assistant to push down the brake pedal and hold it. Open the caliper bleeder screw and close it immediately. Instruct your assistant to release the brake pedal. Repeat these steps until only a steady stream of fluid comes out of the bleeder screw, checking the brake fluid frequently. Torque the bleeder screws to 115 inch-pounds.

5

Install the front wheels and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds. Lower the vehicle. Pump the brake pedal to make sure that you have good braking pressure.

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How to Install a 1953 Ford Pickup Windshield

When installing the new windshield in your 1953 Ford Pickup, you should have someone on hand to help insert the windshield into the vehicle. You can pick up the tools and components you will need for the job from your local auto parts store.

Instructions

1

Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove one of the two mounting screws on the base of the rear-view wing mirror. Slide the wing mirror off its base. Repeat the process on the second wing mirror. This will give you best access to the windshield.

2

Cut the rubber seal around the edges of the windshield, from inside the truck, with a sharp blade. Pull the rubber seal away with your hand. Carefully push the windshield out of the frame. Have someone on hand outside the vehicle to help lift the windshield off the truck.

3

Attach the new gasket on to the windshield so that the heavy part of the gasket is on the inside of the windshield and the slit on the outside.

4

Insert a nylon cord around the outer groove of the windshield. This will allow you to pull the gasket to the inner side of the windshield once the windshield is in place.

5

Lift the windshield in to place in the frame. Have someone on hand to help lift the windshield in to place. Make sure that the end of the cord is inside the frame.

6

Pull the nylon cord from the inside of the vehicle to work the rubber lip to the inside of the frame.

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How to Replace the Brakes on an Acura 2003 RSX

The brakes on your 2003 Acura RSX are disc brakes. Acura decided to use caliper-and-disc style brakes for all four wheels. This means that all four brakes are changed essentially the same way. The rear brakes have an emergency-brake cable, but thats the only difference. Youll need to replace your brakes when the pad material is around one-eighth of an inch or less. Replacement brakes can be purchased from most auto-parts stores.

Instructions

1

Jack up the front and rear of your RSX using a floor jack. Start with the front. Make sure you are jacking on the factory jack points located behind the radiator and behind the trunk. Place a jack stand under each of the front and rear pinch-weld supports under the vehicle and lower the RSX onto the stands.

2

Unbolt the lug nuts on the wheels using an impact wrench. Then, pull the wheels off of the wheel-hub assemblies.

3

Wrap the C-clamp around the brake caliper so that the screw end of the clamp sits flush against the outboard brake pad. Then, tighten the clamp to compress the caliper piston.

4

Remove the clamp when you can no longer tighten it, and unbolt the upper and lower caliper-mounting bolts and pull the caliper off the brake rotor.

5

Have an assistant hold the brake-caliper assembly. Do not let it hang by the rubber brake hose.

6

Unscrew the two screws in the center of the brake rotor using a screwdriver. Most vehicles dont use mounting screws on their brake rotors. Honda, which makes Acura vehicles, does. It will be impossible to remove the rotor if you dont remove these screws.

7

Slide the rotor off and slide the new rotor on. Installation is the reverse of removal.

8

Remove the old brake pads and insert the new pads into the caliper assembly.

9

Mount the brake caliper and tighten the caliper-mounting bolts to 53 ft-lbs. with a torque wrench. The rest of the installation is the reverse of removal.

10

Repeat steps 2 through 9 for the rest of the brakes. When replacing the rear brakes, the only change in procedure is that you will need to remove the emergency-brake spring from the caliper with a pair of pliers before removing the caliper-mounting bolts.

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How to Replace Discs on a Ford Escape

The brake discs on a Ford Escape are just one component in the braking system, but one of the most important. Its the brake disc which turns with the wheel, and is also the object that is clamped onto by the brake pads to slow the vehicle. When you change the brake pads, you also want to change or turn the brake discs (also known as rotors) so that you can maximize the contact points. In this case, the project vehicle is a 2005 Ford Escape, but the process is similar for other vehicles as well.

Instructions

1

Use the jack to lift up the front of the vehicle, then set it on the jack stands. Be sure that the vehicle is completely and solidly on the stands prior to working on the vehicle. Take off the front wheels using the tire iron and set them out of the workspace.

2

Unbolt the brake caliper anchor plate from the front suspension using the ratchet, then lift the caliper and anchor plate off of the front suspension. Support the caliper on a spare jack stand or any other solid object, as long as it isnt hanging from the brake line, which could damage the line.

3

Use the wire cutters to remove the brake disc retaining clips located on the wheel lugs. These do not need to be reinstalled, so its OK if you cut them completely off of the disc and discard them. Slide the brake disc off of the hub.

4

Slide the replacement brake disc onto the hub. Then attach the brake caliper anchor plate to the front suspension using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket.

5

Reinstall the wheels and tires using the tire iron, then lower the SUV off of the stands using the jack.

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How to Replace the Rear Brake Rotors in a 1994 Toyota Celica

The rear brakes on a 1994 Toyota Celica do just a small percentage of the braking in the car, but over time, the rear brakes wear down just as fast as the front. With rear disc brakes, this means getting the stock rotors turned, or replacing them. If your rear rotors have already been turned once, chances are good that youll need to replace them first, which should take about 30 minutes a side.

Instructions

1

Raise the rear of the Celica using the jack and set the car down onto the jack stands. Take off the back wheels with the tire iron.

2

Unbolt the brake caliper from the rear suspension using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket, then hang the caliper from the rear spring using the bungee cord. Install the two 8mm bolts into the threaded holes on the face of the rotor. Tighten them in place with the ratchet until the rotor pops off of the hub. Pull the rotor off with both hands.

3

Slide the replacement rotor onto the wheel hub using your hands, then install two lug nuts using your hands to keep the rotor on the hub. Install the brake caliper onto the rotor with the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket.

4

Remove the wheel lugs with your hands, then reinstall the rear tires using the tire iron. Lower the Celica off the stands with the jack.

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How to Adjust Hyundai Rear Brakes

The rear brakes on Hyundai vehicles are self-adjusting. This means that the rear brakes will adjust over time as you use them. However, a manual adjustment can and should be done initially to ensure that the pads "bed in" or adhere to the rotor properly during braking. "Bedding in" is the process of adjusting the brakes so that some of the brake pad material coats the surface of the rotor and "sticks". Then, when you apply brake pedal pressure, the brake pads will have a better grip on the rotor surface.

Instructions

1

Turn the engine on and put the Hyundai in "Reverse."

2

Slowly back up and apply the brakes. Repeat this process several times. Each time you do this, the pedal pressure should become more and more firm. You should only need to do this three to four times.

3

Drive the Hyundai at 40 mph. Apply the brakes in a controlled and normal fashion until you slow down to 10 mph, but do not stop the vehicle.

4

Increase speed to 40 mph again and apply the brakes until you reach 10 mph. It is important that you do not come to a complete stop during the adjustment period or you may improperly bed the pads to the rotor surface.

5

Repeat Step 4 one more time. Your brakes should be properly adjusted at this point.

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