How to Replace the Front Brake Rotor on a 94 Ford Exp 4x4

The braking system on the Ford Explorer 4X4 makes use of hydraulics to slow and stop the vehicle. When you push the brake pedal with your foot, the master cylinder is activated, and it pushes fluid through the brake lines to the calipers. The brake calipers then squeeze the rotors between them and the friction causes the Explorer to slow down and stop. The friction causes the brakes and rotors to wear and when the rotors reach the minimum thickness of 0.810 inches, you must discard and replace them.

Instructions

1

Park the Ford Explorer on a level surface and turn off the key. Put the wheel chocks behind the rear tires of the vehicle. Lift the Explorer with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under it close to the jacking point and raise it to the frame.

2

Remove the lug nuts from the wheel with the lug wrench and pull the tire from the Ford. Loosen the caliper bolts with a socket and ratchet. Pull the caliper from the mounting bracket and secure it to the strut with a wire tie. If you allow the caliper to hang, it will damage the brake hose.

3

Carefully pry the grease cap from the wheel hub using the screwdriver. Remove the cotter pin from the shaft using the pliers. Remove the locking nut using a wrench. Remove the adjusting nut using the wrench and then pull the flat washer from the shaft.

4

Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub. Be careful not to drop the bearings. Remove the hub and rotor assembly from the spindle.

5

Install the new rotor along with the hub assembly. Insert the roller assembly and the bearing cone. Pack the bearings with wheel grease. Slide the flat washer on the shaft. Install the adjusting nut and tighten it with a wrench. Install the lock nut and tighten it with a wrench. Install a new cotter pin and spread it open with the pliers.

6

Place some wheel grease over the assembly and carefully tap the grease cap into place with the rubber mallet. Cut the wire tie holding the caliper to the strut with the pliers. Place the caliper into the mounting cradle and tighten the locking pins with the socket and ratchet. Install the wheel on the Explorer and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.

7

Remove the jack stand from under the Explorer and lower the vehicle to the ground. Repeat the procedure on the other wheel. Pump the brake several times when the project is complete to be sure that the brake pads bare resting on the rotors.

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Tyres for 308THP

First batch of 308THPs were fitted with CSC3 225/45 R17 tyres. These tyres are superb on wet condition. Its directional stability is exceptional. Very responsive on curves - wet or dry. A little bit noisy and ride harshness but WELL worth it!
I love these tires. I have been driving on them for the last five months covering more than 10,000km. The car feels livelier and more sure-footed especially on wet. I cant decide if I should say it feels like Im riding on rails or if its glued to the road. Whichever it is, the car feels very stable and responsive.

Continental has won a coveted award from the UKs no1 modified car magazine, "FastCar". Announced in the magazine, Continentals ContiSportContact 3 took the top spot in the Best for Safety category.

"FastCar" Magazine also commented:
Safe is the name of the game with Continental Tyres and their wet weather performance is the absolute best. The ContiSportContact 3 tyre is focused on serving up awesome handling for powerful performance cars. We like Continental tyres a lot. The ContiSportContact 3 is the ideal choice for drivers who want the highest levels of safety without compromising on performance. In terms of safety, the use of a supple third generation silica compound allows for supreme wet braking performance. A high proportion of rubber on the outer shoulder and a stiff asymmetrical tread pattern ensures optimum performance handling.
Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric is probably the most logical alternative to CSC3. Just like the asymmetric CSC3, the "asymmetric" in the Eagle F1 Asymmetric name describes the tires tread design and internal structure - both of which are designed to enhance performance in dry and wet conditions. Having three wider channels it looks like CSC3 performs better on wet than GY F1, but the later should be quiter, more comfortable and lasts longer
The tread uses carbon black for dry traction, silica for wet traction and a new generation of polymers to optimize tread stiffness. This compound is molded into an asymmetric tread design with wide, solid outboard shoulder blocks to increase cornering traction while a continuous center rib improves high speed stability and an open inboard tread pattern disperses water. Wide circumferential grooves also allow water to flow from between the tire footprint and road.

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How to Replace the Mirror Glass in a 2001 Honda Accord

Over time, the reflective paint used on the rearview mirror for your 2001 Honda Accord may start to deteriorate. This causes yellow patches to appear on the mirror, thus preventing you from seeing everything going on behind you. A small amount of yellowing may not cause a problem but as the issue progresses, you may fail inspection. Honda dealerships can get you a replacement mirror but it only takes a few minutes to install it. To avoid paying the dealership to install the mirror, complete the job on your own.

Instructions

1

Remove the set-screw from the base of the rearview mirror. The set-screw holds the mirror onto the mounting tab. Use a number 8 Torx driver to remove the screw.

2

Side the rearview mirror upward off the mounting tab glued to the windshield of the Accord.

3

Slide the replacement mirror onto the mounting tab.

4

Secure the mirror to the mounting tab with the set-screw.

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How to Change the Rotors on a 2500 Chevy

If you have detected a worn or damaged brake rotor on your 2500 Chevy model, you need to change it as soon as possible. Although a relatively simple task, removal and installation requires proper handling of brake assembly components and a new rotor to prevent damage, ensure the good operation of the brake system and keep you safe on the road. With the required tools, and possible tools you may need handy, you can safely perform the job at home.

Instructions

Removing the Rotor

1

Park your Chevy pickup in a safe and level place. Shift the transmission to neutral (N).

2

Using a clean rag, clean the cap and body of the brake master cylinder reservoir.

3

Draw at least two-thirds of the brake fluid from the master cylinder using a clean turkey baster and an appropriate container. Set the cap back in place but loose.

4

With a lug wrench, loosen the wheel lug nuts on the wheel/tire assembly with the rotor you are changing.

5

Raise the wheel/tire assembly using a floor jack and support it on a jack stand. Finish removing the wheel/tire.

6

Retract the brake caliper pistons into their bore using a large C-clamp. Position the clamp over the caliper and use the clamp screw to push against the brake pad to force the pistons back.

7

Remove the two brake caliper bracket mounting bolts using a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.

8

Lift the caliper and mounting bracket as an assembly off the rotor and secure it to the coil spring using a piece of heavy wire. Leaving the caliper and bracket hanging loose will damage the brake hose connected to the caliper.

9

Remove the rotor from the hub. If the rotor seems stuck, clean the hub and rotor assembly, including the threaded holes in the rotor, with brake parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free rag. Then, if you are changing a front rotor, install two M10-by-1.5 bolts into the threaded holes of the rotor. Tighten the bolts evenly and gradually with a ratchet and socket to pull the rotor free. On rear wheels, rotate as you pull the rotor off the hub. Alternatively, use a slide hammer with a hooked end and pull the rotor from the vents on the edge.

Installing the New Rotor

10

Clean the hub flange-mating surface with brake parts cleaner, a soft brush and a clean, lint-free rag.

11

Wipe the friction surfaces of the new rotor with brake parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free rag to remove the protective film.

12

Position the new rotor in place.

13

Remove the caliper and bracket assembly from the coil spring and set it in place over the rotor.

14

Clean the caliper bracket mounting bolts with a wire brush, brake parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free rag.

15

Coat the threads of the caliper bracket mounting bolts with a threadlocker.

16

Install and start the caliper bracket bolts by hand. Then, tighten the bolts using the ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.

17

Install the tire and, with the lug wrench, tighten the wheel lug nuts.

18

Lower the vehicle and finish tightening the wheel lug nuts.

19

Slowly pump the brake pedal several times to help the caliper pistons and brake pads properly seat over the new rotor.

20

Fill the brake master cylinder with new brake fluid to bring the level up to the "Full" mark.

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Speed Increment on RON95

Today I had multiple good-times smoking n.a 2.0liter cars - both European and Japanese Saloons. It was on PLUS [Northbound]. Besides testing for the "pick-uping" power of the 308 THP against n.a 2.0 liter cars I also collected additional data for running on RON95.

Here it is...

[sampling time or delta t is 1s]

From the logged data it took around 5.5 seconds [avg.] to increase speeds by 10km/hr at any point from 150km/hr up to around 180km/hr in 4th gear *

e.g
150km/hr to 160km/hr in 5.5 seconds
160km/hr to 170km/hr in 5.5 seconds

Is it "too slow" on RON95? What is the best timing running on RON97 or V-power then?

*Earlier test took less than 25seconds [updated timing took 23.5 seconds even on RON95] to sprint from 0~160km/hr .

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Is Peugeot 308 Auto with THP Power Plant a Frugal Car

Ive just returned home from 801.3km weekend trip [KL-Kelantan-KL] in myPeugeot 308 with a 60-liter fuel tank of RON97 w/o refuelling. Fuel/trip computer snapshots and manually calculated figures are available for comparison on the fuel consumptions.


1. From on-board Fuel/Trip Computer
The best average fuel consumption was 6.4liter/100km [16km/liter or 45mpg] on 307km* route from Machang to Raub.

[16km/liter or 45mpg]

[*Note: On AutoCruise without exceeding speed limits >5kph - AutoCruiser was set @ 75, 85 and 95kph wherever applicable respectively]

After Raub the traffic was no longger smooth flowing - there were convoys of express buses, trailers and cars all the way prevented me from using AutoCruise. At times the speed was reduced to 50kph or less when trailing slow vehicles. It was Monday 27th around 4:00am~6:00am when I was driving from Raub to KL.

There are more accends than decends from KL to Kelantan hence more fuel consumption [6.7liter/100km] than going back to KL from Kelantan.
The average fuel consumption for the 800km drive was 6.6l/100km or thereabout as shown on the MFD .

[15.2km/liter or 43.3mpg]

Earlier, I left KL for Kelantan on Friday 24th around 4:00am. The actual KL-Kelantan[@Machang] point-to-point distance was 383km. I drove some distance further up to make it cukup2 400km [for 800km return trip]. See... after arriving @Machang, still got remaining fuel for another 500km as shown on the CDC - more than enough to burn along the way back home.


2. By Manual Calculation:
The amount I paid for the fuel used after returning from 801.3km trip was RM97.05 [i.e 53.9liter].

Hence, by calculation the average fuel consumption was 6.7liter/100km [14.9km/liter or 42.7mpg] on 801km

Since the amount of fuel used for the 800km drive was about 54liter, the expected range per full tank [60liter] will be 888.888km! While on-board fuel/trip computer tells 901.3km [801.3+100km]. "801.3km" is the distance travelled since the last refueling and "100km" is the remaining kilometer to go before EMPTY as displayed on the MFD and CDC based upon the average fuel consumption for the last few kilometers sampling.

Only now, I can appreciate and enjoy steady driving on AutoCruise - not just driving w/o pumping the accelerator pedal, but most of the time I dont even need to touch it.


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When Should You Visit a Transmission Repair Specialist

Most people drive their cars every day but still dont know how they work. Sometimes drivers will even ignore obvious problems with their vehicles, hoping they will go away on their own or that it isnt something serious. Only when the car stops working altogether do they visit a mechanic in a panic! Issues with a cars transmission can mean serious problems down the road if they are not attended to quickly.

In laymans terms, a transmission transfers the power created by the engine to the drive line and wheels: this can be done either manually (as with a stick shift) or automatically.

Here are some of the symptoms of transmission problems and how to know when its time to visit a transmission repair specialist.

-- Problems shifting gears: since the transmissions job is to keep up the momentum of the car by shifting gears, it stands to reason that any problems with gear change may be stemming from the transmission. The symptoms could be an unusual noise made by the transmission during a shift, or, if you drive a stick, it may not glide smoothly between gears.

-- The car makes a jerking movement or the engine surges at inopportune times. The jerking movement could indicate that the engines power is not being smoothly transferred when a shift needs to occur.

-- Transmission fluid is leaking. Transmission fluid acts as a lubricant for all of the moving parts inside your cars transmission. Just as the engine cannot run right without oil, the transmission will not work right without fluid. Transmission fluid is generally reddish in color, so if you see any on the ground under your chassis, get help right away before a costly disaster happens.

-- The car wont move. If your car starts up ok, it just refuses to move, the problem is likely to be with the transmission. Youll need to have it towed to a shop where their mechanics can advise you on what to do next.

All car drivers should have a working knowledge of how their vehicle works and what the symptoms are for certain problems that may arise. If you suspect your transmission is to blame, take it to a mechanic: it does not necessarily mean it has to be replaced. The problem may just be a minor one; but one things for sure: transmissions do not fix themselves!

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